Pag to Vis

Relaxing in the hamock

Pag to Vis - August 2016 (very very late blog...)

Shortly after the Bura we left Rab to motor down the coast of Pag, spending a night anchored in Novaija.   A decision was made to continue past the island of Pag to visit the old town of Nin.   I was thinking Nin would have loads of Pag cheese.  They did not but we did find some in the local grocery.  Expensive and tasted like, nothing really, no distinct flavor.   J and Elly however did purchase some which enabled me to have a free taste.  Very thankful to them both.

Vis Harbour

Nin has a very rich and tumultuous history. Its historical center is located on an islet only 500 meters in diameter. Nin is situated in a lagoon, surrounded by natural sandy beaches and linked with the mainland by two stone bridges from the 16th century. According to historians the area of Nin appears to have been settled 10,000 years ago. The present-day town on the islet developed 3,000 years ago and is one of the older towns on the eastern Adriatic. 

Since the 9th century B.C. Nin was inhabited by the Ilyrians, the Greeks and Romans and the Croats colonized Nin at the beginning of the 7th century. At the time of the Turkish wars, Nin was the battle-field. When Dalmatia was sold to Venice (1409), the city was economically exploited but not protected militarily.  Nin was destroyed twice,  in 1571 and in1646.

Venice gave an order to burn the town and destroy it systematically, sacrificing Nin and leaving the burnt town to the Turks, to save the town of Zadar. 

Corfu

The six of us (Umata and Bonaventure) anchored on theAdriatic side and walked the few kilometres in scorching heat to Nin.   It was worth it.  Nin a small well kept town surrounded by old saltwork sites, kite surfers in the lagoon, Roman mosaic floors, an ancient church and completely different scenery looking towards the end of the Velebit channel.  Plus we had lunch out, a rare treat for Branko and I.

Next stop, Sutomiscica on the island of Ugljan for a game of bolls, meeting with MdR folks and just relaxing.   No concessions so far,  nice safe anchorages with good holding.  A few days later we went north around the tip of Ugljan and sailed down to Vela Luka by Murter.   We were slowly heading south waiting to meet up with Branko's family.

Vis town

Since we had never been to the south of Tisno we decided to sail down the coast and tuck into the little islands and bays near Tisno bridge.  Lovely area, quiet, good anchorages, few boats, little towns and a music festival if you were so inclined, which we were.   We anchored by the festival and listened to music from early morning to early morning.

Going for a swim

Corfu 

After lazying about for a number of days we met up with Umata again for a game of hearts (Jeff and Gayle.)  On our way north we had discovered a nice anchorage in Sibenik, in the bay behind the marina, although not a swimming area it had great shopping in easy walking distance.  Plus we were still waiting for family.   They did arrive and we spent a few hours chatting along the beautiful harbor in Sibenik. The next day we sailed under the Krk river bridge and then off to the island of Zlarin for swimming, BBQ and relaxation, again.
 Branko, Dora, Domi and Sanja are Branko's cousins,  we lived with them one winter in Croatia a few years ago.  Brave souls because they then met us in the summer and came sailing, for 10 days. We enjoyed having them visit.

Soon we had to continue south, first to Rocogniza for a few nights waiting for a southerly to blow through.  On a blustery day we decided to sail to Vis.  We had never been there and the winds would be perfect to take us directly into the harbour.   A fun ride with black clouds over Split and Hvarr with the occasional strong gust we made Vis island in no time.   We entered the protected outer harbour and securely anchored right in the town harbour, no concession and only a couple of boats.   Great 360 degree view of the entire town worthy of a glass of beer while sitting snugly in the cockpit. We did not go visit all the tunnels, military areas nor beaches but we did wander throughout the town and bays close by.

Vis was inhabited since Neolithic times. In the 4th century BC by the Greeks and until 1797, the island was under the rule of the Republic of Venice then Austria.   Tito in WW2 used the island for military purposes and up until the mid nineties mines were still around.

We needed to leave before our 3 months expired so decided to check out of Vis and sail the 36 hours to Montenegro.  Half sailing and the remainder motoring.  Arrival in Tivat Montenegro mid day.  The check out was easy compared to Cavtat, dinghy to the police who did all the paperwork ( as the harbourmaster was not yet in his office. )  Although a simple and calm process the officer did make 2 mistakes.  She told Branko we could sail direct to Montenegro through Croatian waters and did not stamp our exit papers.  Montenegro insists on the paperwork being exact, if not a fine is extracted.   

Corfu fort 

Just before entering Montenegro we were stopped by the Croatian police and fined 600.00 kunas for not leaving Croatian waters immediately after checking out of Vis.  At Montenegro customs the policeman advised Branko that the paperwork had not been stamped (Montenegro requires proof of your last port) and said that usually a fine of 200.00 euros is charged.  Branko, being his charming self avoided the fee.

Mag

p.s. pictures of Nin will be following...Corfu pics are only to keep you interested