Tuesday 28 June 2011

900 Miles From Anywhere

That's exactly where we are on day 12 (or is it 13?), and barely half way to the Azores. Who would of thought the Atlantic Ocean is so big? Since we were in the gale a few days back, we haven't really had any decent winds with only one 100 mile day. This passage normally takes 17-21 days to complete, but I think we just might set a record for the slowest crossing.

The problem has been a series of high pressure regions that either materialise on top of us or move over top of us. The trick is to try to stay to the northern edge of the highs, but knowing where that exactly will be over the short term is the difficulty.

Nevertheless, the days are very pleasant and lazy. We see the occasional pod of dolphins coursing by us. We saw a sperm whale resting on the surface before going for another incredibly deep (3000 m) dive in pursuit of food - usually giant squid. We have seen other types of whale and several species of birds, jelly fish and a snake. What we haven't seen is a fish on the end of our fishing line.

Being out here gives me a good sense of what it would be like to exist in Limbo, where one's sense of time is distorted, and everything looks the same but is different. Most of my thoughts are focussed on the weather and the wind - will there be any? will there be too much? will it be blowing in the right direction? Then there is also the maintenance of the boat. Currently, I have a problem with the main sail that we just purchased from Mack Sails. It turns out that the topmost sail slide, which is made of metal, is too small and slightly misshapen, and has damaged the sail track and keeps popping out. So right now, we can't really use our full sail. I am not sure how to repair it, but I think it will be a big (which usually means expensive) job when we get to the Azores. We will see how Mack Sails addresses it.

Otherwise, life is good, me and the girls are having fun, and we are slowly heading in the right direction.

Branko

Saturday 25 June 2011

Moving on Again

After the gale passed over us, a high moved in and we were becalmed. Not being sure where the wind was and having over 1200 miles to go until we reach the Azores, we couldn't just turn on the motor and start looking for wind, so we bobbed. We moved a total of 9 miles during that day.

In the evening, during our chat with Herb, he advised motoring north for 90 miles to get above the high pressure system. We motored through the night and after only 40 miles a westerly wind let put out our genoa on a broad reach and shut off the engine. Since then we have been making on average 6 kts. = good progress.

Branko

Friday 24 June 2011

It Was Quite a Night!

After talking with Herb,the weather guru that I have mentioned before, we did as he suggested and headed northeast to cross the approaching cold front. He said we could expect 25kt winds. We got 40 - with foaming seas! I was broad reaching with a tiny scrap of jib out and triple reefed main out on a preventer when the wind suddenly increased and tripped the Cape Horn, our wind pilot, and the boom crash gybed. Thank goodness for the stretchy nylon preventer because there was no damage to the rig and we ended up hove-to, which is how we stayed for the duration.

It was our first time in winds like that and I can tell you it was scary not knowing if it was going to get worse, listening to the howling wind increasing in intensity, and looking around at the building seas and foam blowing off the waves. It made me truly feel like the tiny speck that we are out here in this vast ocean.

The boat fortunately took care of us and herself. The crew were all brave and we actually had fun after a while listening to the howling wind and telling stories to pass the time.

During the day, while we waited for the seas to mellow and the wind to turn, I had to disassemble the wind turbine because the fishing line got caught up in it - big job, don't ask. Most of my time is spent sleeping, reading, looking for things that need fixing and fixing.

Anne Maggie, Sophie and I are having a grand time despite the occasional screw ups and terrifying moments.

We are now motoring north to get above a high pressure ridge that will carry us westward.

Monday 20 June 2011

My Best Birthday Ever

This is day four and we are about 350 miles away from Bermuda. We have had some fantastic sailing over the past couple of days and are trying to stay out of the path of a low pressure system. We are looking for an opportunity to make some northerly direction.

Even though there is not a lot to do out here, time flies. I opened some birthday gifts, we had a beer and some potato chips - all in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. Thanks to Maggie and Anne for being here with me to share this special day.

Branko

Friday 17 June 2011

We Left Bermuda Yesterday....

but we have not gotten very far. We spent the day tacking trying to make some easting but it has been slow.

The seas were very confused when we left yesterday, and the whole crew was feeling a little green, especially Sophie. It's better today.

We are hoping to pick up some favourable winds from a low that is approaching on Sunday and make up for some lost time.

In the meantime, I am trying to catch up on sleep.

Branko

Friday 10 June 2011

Relaxing in Bermudaful

St George church
Back street,  St Georges











Likely you are asking yourself, did they leave ? Are they on the ocean?
What gives?  We are still here ....... anchored in St. Georges Harbour.


St Georges street

 Basically,  lounging, reading books, going  ashore, walking - nothing too taxing nor terribly  interesting,  unless you like to hear about people relaxing.

St Georges Harbour







However ...... Ann arrives on Sunday so we are spurred into action.  Ann?  Whose Ann?  Ann is our newest member of the HOBO clan,  she (brave she must be) decided to join us for the Trans-Atlantic leg,  Bermuda, Azores and beyond - for the summer.    We are looking forward to her arrival, meeting her and setting sail for our next adventure.

 More about Ann http://annewhite.ca/


Tina, Geoff, Branko and Maggie
Geoff, Tina and Branko - walkee
The last week in Florida we met Geoffrey and Tina from the S/Y  S'ours of Ipswich.   Amazingly enough they were in Fort Pierce and planning the exact same route as us;   they however,  had already done the passage,  nine years previous.    How wonderful to meet them  and great fun.  We left Florida together,  taking slightly different paths and did not see them again until we reached Bermuda - and now we are neighbours again.


Reed and Kevin


On the weekend Kevin and Reed from Toronto (Reed and Branko know each other through work) scootered down to St George to visit us from their resort - great to see them and even better to spend time.   The trip (Reed father,  Kevin son of) was a graduation present for Kevin,  in the fall he starts at Ryerson in a Cinematography degree.  We hope to see the entire family in Europe next year.




Moon Gate - for love
During our relaxing faze, we took a walk through St Georges,  down to Tobacco Beach,
Tobacco Beach
 past a farm (Tina used to raise and show goats, who knew such a thing existed?) that had cows, many variety of goats (who knew there were so many types, of goats that is;  long eared, short eared, spotted, furry, not furry,) chickens and one turkey (who was harangued constantly by the kids) - around a curve and we came upon another small beach, full, full, full of seaglass - we filled our pockets and then off to see the fort, cannons and martello towers that ran along the coast - by the very skinny entrance to St.Georges - finally to St. Georges Yacht Club for a reasonably priced drink - a very satisfying walk.


Tina with the goats
Fort St Catherines

Painted houses
Bermudian homes are sturdy and well kept structures with many smatterings of mansions thrown in - all homes are  painted bright,sunny colours, pinks, blues, oranges, purples, so that even the odd beige colour comes across as vibrant.  




Gombey Dancer


Yesterday, we (S'ours and us) took the public bus around the island.  Our final destination was Hamilton for the Gombey -Harbour Nights Extravaganza!  We wanted to see the Gombey dance and costumes,  as we are told is part of Bermudian history.

Gombey:  (Bermuda.gov website)


The origins of Bermuda's Gombey dancers can be traced to a mix of Afro-Caribbean and Native American influences. All of the body and faces of the dancers are covered to avoid identification, as slave-owners frowned upon the practice of their slaves participating as Gombeys.  Nowadays, Gombey troupes spring up on Bermuda's streets to perform dancing  to the hypnotic beat of drums and bottle-whistles.


Little Gombey -stretching





Little Gombey Dancer


We started out at 6:45am,in rush hour traffic.  What a treat,  people are very polite and relaxed - everyone  greets the entire bus as they board,  good morning, afternoon or evening.   So civilized here,  first you ring the bell. stay in your seat until the bus stops and then exit, while the people waiting to board, wait patiently outside while you  slowly make your way off.... no complaint, no pushing, no muttering - its like going to a retreat :-)  

Our friend Elsie grew up in Bermuda,  so my entire day was  spent wondering if Elsie went to school here,  rode her horse there, swam at  this beach, walked on this road, drank at  this pub,  or did she know that guy with the red shorts?  It was as if she was here with us.


Red (Bermuda) short man

Back to our journey.   After a quick coffee in a Portuguese cafe we took another bus and went to the dockyards.  Youser! what a difference - tourists galore!  Two cruise ships were in and the place was swarming.  Geoff had been to Bermuda in the 80's with the British Reserve and mentioned that at that time the dockyards were derelict, abandoned and falling to ruin - Amazing what Bermuda had done with the place,  now a tourist mecca, of shops, restaurants, buses, museums,  scooter rentals and of course sunshine.


The Dockyards

 Their National Museum is housed within the fortress keep of the Royal Naval Dockyard, Casemate Barracks and some of the ramparts  http://www.bmm.bm/  - Bermuda was developed as a strategic mid-Atlantic British naval base - 1620's until the 80's,  give or take a few years.   the ramparts as expected provide wonderful views and the Commissioners House, beautifully restored and a pleasure to walk through.    Having brought no food with us, Tina graciously invited us to join them in a lunch of hand made scones and sausage roll,  Branko was a bit peckish by that time.
Note: those that know me,  know that food is very important, hence the description of our lunch eats :-)


Morning,  St George

Baton Twirlers  - Majorettes 
We took the ferry back across the bay to Hamilton where we lounged around in the many beautiful parks - again very nice, clean and so comfortable (bench's, shade, clean bathrooms.)

 At 6:00ish we headed for Front Street where  the big event was to take place.
Front Street

 Every Wednesday the city shuts down their main street to traffic, the roads were  blocked, kiosks set up and a band stand, all before our eyes.    The Gombey dancers started the night off,  immediately following were the baton twirling group and finishing off with a drum band.
 Fun, great sounds and a lively, interesting audience.


Drum band

Kids, jumping into the harbour













For the last few days, Branko has been doing chores in anticipation of soon leaving - fixed our dingy (yet more leaks, a year old and its busting seams regularly)  much to  Branko's annoyance.   Splicing the jib halyard (noticed it was wearing, when we took the jib down to repair a rip) and moved one or our lee cloths -  whew, time to relax with a swim on the beach - where is S'ours? They were to pick us up hours ago...... :-)

Branko, finally at the beach


Will talk soon.
Maggie


P.S. The day before we left Bermuda we walked along the cobbled streets of St. George.   A large cruise ship was anchored outside the harbour and were dingying (sp?) people in to see St. George.  Well, were we not surprised when we walked past, stopped and then said "LINDA??" -  here miles away from home we meet friends from our old yacht club - Linda  and Kathy (along with Linda's sister-in-law from England.)
Kathy, ' (Lina's sis-in-law) Pinky and Linda

Kathy and Linda
It was funny to just pass them on the street like that,  what a small world - but what a wonderful one.

Of course we went for drinks and talked our ears off - Linda had been in the Azores 2 years previously visiting mutual friends on ExcuseMe ( Scott and Lori.)    So,  we heard about  the great spots to go through Linda.  Thanks Linda!!!  Hope your week in Bermuda was grand.

Wednesday 1 June 2011

It's Bermuda-ful!!

Customs House, St George

We arrived into St.George's Harbour at sunset last night. We cleared into customs (they work late!), dropped the anchor (no worries there!), had a couple of celebratory drinks, and then had a good, watch-uninterrupted, night's sleep.
Raising the Flag

Today we will tidy up the boat before we launch the dinghy to go exploring on shore in Bermuda.



It feels good!
Branko