Montenegro!
September 2016 (very late post...)
| Roofs of Kotor |
A beautiful place to arrive. A long, clean (no used tractor tires, ribar sticking out or concrete falling apart) easy customs dock to tie up, complete with a Porto Montenegro Marina helper...no charge, friendly, helpful and we weren't even staying in the marina. Duty free fuel 50 cents a litre, gorgeous mountains, history and our friends Tim, Katie, Molly and Louie.
| Anchorage near Kotor |
We have been to Kotor area before. Our third time here and still the views take my breath away. This visit however we have found new places to see and anchor., ending up spending 1 month here. During the check-in, Branko discovered a source of home made sclivovica (Balkan grappa) and instantly purchased a few litres. Turned out it is delicious and we will need to restock before leaving. The weather was lovely but a Bura was blowing in for 3 days. Our friends in the know, recommended anchoring off sveti Marko. Perfect spot for a north east wind. The island of Sveti Marko was, 20 years ago, a Club Med resort. In 1991 the island was abandoned quickly leaving behind stage gear, costumes and still standing grass huts, nothing has been changed. So anchoring here you feel as though your in some Polynesian island village that is now uninhabited.
| MontyB |
We rented a car with our friends Elli and Gerard (Umata) for 2 days. Never, ever did we expect the rest of Montenegro to be so interesting, beautiful and varied.
Our car trip included visiting the old town of Budva (nicely refurbished with many restaurants, souvenir shops and rooms to rent) which also included a shingle beach surrounded by the old town walls. We drove out of busy Budva and up into the mountains, windy roads that continued to give great views of the bay, the little island and in the distance Bar.
I had read about a quaint town by a river that had once been the winter homes of royalty. So up we went until the large well maintained highway had new signs directing us to turn right, everything was going so well until the road turned into a dirt track with signs only to wineries. Obviously it was a trick to get you into these far off wineries. By the time you've arrived, figured out that you took a wrong turn, you're thirsty and ready to spend some money.
Our car trip included visiting the old town of Budva (nicely refurbished with many restaurants, souvenir shops and rooms to rent) which also included a shingle beach surrounded by the old town walls. We drove out of busy Budva and up into the mountains, windy roads that continued to give great views of the bay, the little island and in the distance Bar.
I had read about a quaint town by a river that had once been the winter homes of royalty. So up we went until the large well maintained highway had new signs directing us to turn right, everything was going so well until the road turned into a dirt track with signs only to wineries. Obviously it was a trick to get you into these far off wineries. By the time you've arrived, figured out that you took a wrong turn, you're thirsty and ready to spend some money.
The bonus was that in our lost state we drove up, down and then up again on one " out of the way" road, which had s ramshackle kiosk that was serviced by some strange looking people. The 3rd time we went up this road I said, if we pass that kiosk ( because we still didn't know where we were) again we must stop, and voila there it was. We pulled over and were offered all sorts of wine, whisky, liquors and honey to taste. Being that this kiosk was a shepherds shack made of sticks and the chairs made of tree stumps and plastic pails, our expectations in cleanliness was low. Turned out that was a good thing as the cups used consisted of bottle tops, cans, bottles and a few regular small glasses, not washed just reused. The owner was a jovial woman who knew how to entertain her clients, laughing, pouring drinks, providing seating and telling stories ( thank goodness for Branko and his ability to understand and speak the language, otherwise we would have just sat there nodding with stupid smiles on our faces.)
| Sunset in Sveti Marko |
Of course we had to buy some items, overpriced though they were, the experience was worth a few extra euros. Visky for Branko and honey for Umata.
All the wrong turns and dirt roads were worth it once we arrived in Rijeka Crnojevic, the town sits beside the river of Crnojević - near the coast of Skada Lake. Peaceful river with swans, willow trees and the best restaurant in Montenegro ( so said the current Lonely Planet.)
| In the Fijords |
We then headed up into the mountains just to drive through the countryside, fantastic views of Kotor and surrounding bays.
Next day we started off early to have coffee in Kotor before it got busy. Then along the bay road to Pervast quick walk down to the village with a slightly slower walk ( up all those stairs) back to the car. Pervast is a UNESCO site with a beautiful waterfront that looks out to the small islands that house the monastery and church.
A drive through Risan ( the oldest town in Montenegro, or so it says) and a right turn into another set of mountains. This time our destination was Dumitor N.P., the lakes and valleys within. Montenegro is a vastly different country once inland. The river valley near Rudine, fertile plains with neat little farms that can be clearly seen from the road above. The lakes of Stansko Jerezo have green islands and sand beaches but no boats nor swimmers, perhaps a closer look was necessary. We turned before heading into the town of Niksic, well known for it's Montenegro brand beer. Our plan was to see the Tara river gorge before noon, as later the sun no longer shines into the gorge and nothing can be seen. Luckily we made it in time and enjoyed the view with a few hundred Serbian and Bosnian tourists, still spectacular. We decided to take the river valley road back to Niksic ( must have a beer in Niksic!) so very stunning with the broad winding along the river, tunnels through the rock faces and sheer cliffs. The river was light see-through blue, and very cold. By the time we reached Niksic a cold beer and a meal sounded perfect.
| Tivat Bay |
Niksic is a university town so of course it was filled with youth and trendy outdoor bars. We even got a free round of drinks because a young man's wife just had a baby, a boy and he ( the father) was celebrating with friends. After a meal and a beer or two we headed back to Tivat via the mountain roads.
Once back on the boat we waited another week, behind Sveti Marko enjoying time with MontyB. Soon the weather forecast was perfect for a 2 day sail to Greece.
M.
p.s. pictures of inland Montenegro following....
p.s. pictures of inland Montenegro following....
| Preveza, Greece |
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