Wednesday 21 March 2012

Live From Your Correspondent in Spain......

Another friend, Elsie arrived for a visit.  Now there are five of us on the boat but only for a night.  Guy is leaving the following day.  So we will be back down to four of us.  We are crowded but happy.

Anyway.....Maggie and Kathy had gone to pick up Elsie at the airport in Almeria.  Upon their return, they drove by a car that was aflame.  I grabbed my trusty camera and snapped a couple of photos of the action.

It all ended well (except for the car), but, as a note to any future visitors, don't expect this kind of show whenever you come for a visit.




Branko

An Excursion Into the Mountains

The day after we got back from Barcelona, our friend arrived for a visit.  He was on a business trip to Europe and took a small side trip to spend a few days with us.
Ohanes from across the valley:  The churches are often left unpainted.

We didn't waste much time: the next day after his arrival we got back in the car and went on an excursion into the mountains.  Our destination was Ohanes and Tices.  You will recall the names from an earlier post about a run that Maggie entered there.  I hadn't seen the little town of Tices since I wasn't running, so I was eager to go.

View from the restaurant
In the tourist guide books you will read about the beautiful "pueblo blancos", or white villages, in these mountains, and some notable ones are mentioned.  However, the books don't mention Ohanes.  This village is tucked up on the side of a precipitous mountain with a view over a majestic valley with small, steep winding streets.  The surrounding mountainside is mostly terraced with olive trees planted almost everywhere.  Some of the farmers that work the land still use mules and have them "parked" in stables under their house.  The setting and lifestyle are idyllic.

In Ohanes we went to the one of the local restaurants for cervesas and tapas: 11 beers with delicious food and 3 cafe con leches for 19 euros, with a magnificent view of the countryside from our seat on the outdoor patio overlooking the town.

Ruins in Tices: view from the church
Tices isn't even a village; it is 4km down the road from Ohanes.  There you find a few farms scattered on the mountainside, ruins of old dwellings, a relatively large church or sanctuary and only about 20 residents living there.  It is very peaceful and beautiful.  The sanctuary stands out because of its size and setting and is a fantastic destination for a day long road trip.

The winding roads along the mountain's sides can be a little unsettling due to the sheer drop-offs and random placement of guard rails, but the scenery is grand.  Maggie and I have been up there several times now and we will never tire of it.

We all agreed that it was a beautiful day that we spent in the mountains.

Branko



Street scene in Ohanes

Guy stopping to smell the roses

View from the community laundry building

Tuesday 20 March 2012

Our Trip to Barcelona

Last week, Maggie and I rented a car and set off for Barcelona which is 900 kilometers from here.  Barcelona is at the northern end of the Spanish Mediterranean coast not far from the French border.  We actually stayed in a small coastal town called Sitges that is 40 km. south of Barcelona and is well served by a commuter train service to Barcelona.  Maggie found a great deal on an apartment that we rented for four days that had a kitchen, bath, balcony and parking.

The first day we were on our own walking around the beautiful city visiting all the sites: Gothic Bario, the Ramblas, the Market, Plaza de Catalunya, the port, and many others.  We must have walked 15 km. with frequent breaks in some of the many cafes.  We were back in Sitges late in the afternoon to meet Kathy, our friend and on the frequent visitor plan.  She will be staying with us for the next three weeks.  The first night was spent in the apartment catching up with each other.

Setting off on the first day from Sitges
Up early the next morning, we got on the train and set off for Barcelona where we led Kathy around to some of the sights that we saw the day before and discovered new and beautiful ones.  We toured around the old city into the evening to see Barcelona lit up at night.  One of the more interesting visits was to the City Historical Museum that featured 4000 square meters of excavated Roman ruins of the ancient city of Barcino, which lies under the streets of the present-day city.  What a fabulous feeling to retrace the 2000 year old Roman streets!
Roman temple pillars

The next day we rented bicycles and rode along the abundant bicycle pathways all over the city.  One of the highlights was riding through the parks and along the avenues towards the Sagrada Familia church complex and back towards the center.  The beauty of the city's architecture surrounds you all the time.

The market entrance off the Ramblas
All too soon our time in Barcelona ended and we returned to our apartment in Sitges for an early night to get up early for the drive back to Almerimar the next day.

On the way back we made a detour to visit the town of Cuevas de Almanzora where some of the residents actually live in modern-day caves.  This phenomenon exists in other parts of Spain as well, perhaps most notably in the Sacramonte bario in the city of Granada.  How cool is that?



The Ramblas



Columbus monument

After a long day, we finally made it back to the boat to the great relief of Kathy, who was crammed in the back seat with all our luggage.  And that was the end of our wonderful trip to Barcelona.  Visit our photo gallery to see the pictures that we took.

Branko

Sunday 4 March 2012

Andalucia Day, 2012

Last Tuesday was a holiday here in Andalucia, and we spent it with Lidia and her family.  We had loads of fun hanging out with Lidia, her brother Jose, sister Maura and dad, Antonio.






Doin' a deal





This region of Spain is one of the main production areas of vegetables for all of Europe, particularly in the winter.  There are thousands of acres under plastic which traps heat and allows all types of veggies to grow.  Twenty years ago, Antonio started a distribution company that buys vegetables from the auction houses, called "subastas", and sells them, in turn, to the suppliers of supermarkets.  The subastas buy produce from the growers and then hold daily auctions to sell it to the next level of distributors.  So Maggie and I accompanied Antonio on his rounds to buy veggies for his company Oasis.  He was born and raised in this area, has held various responsible positions in the local economy, is very well known, and does not speak a word of English.  His nickname that he himself acknowledged is "The Radio" which explains why he happily chatted with us all day long despite our limited ability to comprehend what he was saying and providing appropriate responses.  Bless him.

The auctions operated a little differently from what I have seen before.  A price for a lot of veggies is stated, either on a computer screen or vocally, and a count down begins until a buyer cries out.  I am not sure how the amount purchased is set, but the countdown continues until the entire lot is sold.  Once all the lots are sold, the buyers go out to the warehouse and claim their goods.  This seemed to be a chaotic process and, again, I am not sure how things got decided, but there did seem to be some flaring of tempers.

Chowtime with Antonio and Lidia
Chew-the-fat-time

Once, Antonio and his various purchasing agents got everything that was needed, it was back to Oasis to await delivery of the goods.  Client's orders would have to be filling, the produce put onto pallets and delivered, and invoices sent that same day.  All three siblings amicably work there, so it really is a family business.  Inside in an enclosed area, there is a fully equipped kitchen where the family makes their meals while at work.  Talk about fresh food!  Apart from all the produce that comes in daily, out back in several pens there chickens, ducks, rabbits, goats, sheep, pigs and a variety of pets for Jose's young daughter, Laura.  A few weeks ago when Maggie and Lidia ran in the Adra race, Lidia took us to visit Oasis for the first time.  We arrived shortly after a few animals were slaughtered and made into various sausages (a few a which are now hanging from the boom gallows) and cuts of meat.  Maggie and I had fun looking at all the animals in the menagerie.  I was shocked by the "equipment" that the male pig was sporting.  WOW!  For all you city slickers that don't know what I am talking about, look it up on the internet *he he*.
Goat or sheep?
Andalucian specialties

Lidia whipped up a great meal consisting of typical Andalucian dishes, like patatas del pobre or "potatoes of the poor", another dish of smoked eggplant and peppers, and some chorrizo.  Yum yum!

Antonio gave us a ride back to the boat, and we left happy and laden with fresh produce, chorrizos and morcilla (blood sausage), and freshly laid eggs.  Lidia, Jose, and Maura remained to finish up work.  We had a great time!
Lidia and Laura

Laura
Making friends among kind, generous people such as them is going to make it hard to leave in a few weeks.  However, we are already talking about returning to spend some time here next winter to continue hanging out with  all our new Spanish friends.

Branko

Friday 2 March 2012

Update, life in southern Spain.

After a few years of limited availability and motivation to run,  I have gotten the 'bug' again.   Thanks to my friends Conchi and Lidia - who have encouraged me, included me in their running group 'Murgiverde'  and entered me in every race going :-)  First race was Adra, which Branko told you about and two weeks later - Ohanes, a  white town in the mountains.


View of  Ohanes from the road


Street in Ohanes

Murgiverde runners


Joanne and Jose (Lidia's brother}

View from Ohanes


Ohanes

Joanne, winning first prize, again.
 I trained with Lidia by doing long distance runs (Conchi was in  Madrid, so missed out) and strength training - which did little for the 10K Ohanes race.  The first 4K was uphill,  every time you reached the top of one hill you thought ' good, its over' until you turned the corner and ugh, more steep hill...and so it went for 4K.  We ran to a small town called Tices, which sits on a hill overlooking a beautiful valley full of almond trees, in bloom - pink, fragrant flowers - both pleasing to smell and see.   The last 400 meters to Tices was a steep climb - just to make sure you knew you were alive.   The bonus of this race was that there was 4K, totally downhill - so where you lost time on your uphill you got it back on the down.  Unfortunately for Lidia and I,  we were last, with 3 young boys on bikes zigzagging behind us trying not to run us over and trying to keep themselves amused; behind them was the emergency vehicle.  We felt special! So much attention for being last, almost as good as being first - except that the only people at the finish line were Branko and Lidia's dad.   Not the same kind of welcome, but wonderful none the less.   I did not win a prize this time,  even though I was the oldest woman running, but I did get a sandwich and a wonderful shirt.  The run, shirt, views and a sandwich only 5 Euros :-)  What a fantastic deal!

Mag