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| Entrance to Montengro |
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| Kotor area |
Likely tomorrow or the day after, we will head back to Croatia.
Branko
Tuesday 31 July 2012
The Fjord of Kotor
Today, we traveled the 10 or so miles deeper into the fjord at the end of which is Kotor. It is an old walled, Venetian city that is remarkable. For one thing, the city wall runs upwards from the shore to a height of some few hundred feet, at the top of which are some fortified buildings. We didn't go up because it is just too damn hot, but we did anchor off the shore and went for a swim. The scenery is spectacular. We are hemmed by mountains which come down to the shore and small towns are strung along in places along the shore. We will post some pictures at a later date.
Likely tomorrow or the day after, we will head back to Croatia.
Branko
Likely tomorrow or the day after, we will head back to Croatia.
Branko
We Are Across The Adriatic
Last night we slept at anchor in the fjord in Montenegro. We actually checked into Cavtat, Croatia, earlier in the day but were refused entry and had to leave the country. So we went to the next nearest country, which is Montenegro and is only 25 miles away.
I will supply more details when we get a decent internet connection (this post is being made via shortwave radio), but suffice it to say it is all my fault.
As Maggie pointed out to me yesterday, we were staying one step ahead of the Schengen police in Italy and now this - we feel like outlaws.
We might stay a day or so here before returning to Croatia to have a look around and get our money's worth. The cruising permit cost 60 euros for 7 days.
Branko
I will supply more details when we get a decent internet connection (this post is being made via shortwave radio), but suffice it to say it is all my fault.
As Maggie pointed out to me yesterday, we were staying one step ahead of the Schengen police in Italy and now this - we feel like outlaws.
We might stay a day or so here before returning to Croatia to have a look around and get our money's worth. The cruising permit cost 60 euros for 7 days.
Branko
Wednesday 25 July 2012
We Are In Brindisi
We left Otranto yesterday with a forecast for following winds for the 40 mile trip to Brindisi. Instead we had winds from ahead, again, with a really messy sea that had H2OBO pounding into swells and waves. After 10 miles of that we pulled into a little marina in San Foca (one night stay cost 54 euros), watched a couple of movies and went to bed.
We got up really early to depart and finish the trip. There was no wind and the seas were calm - big difference. We motored all the way without incident and are in the Lega Navale Marina (34 euro/ night). This is our last stop in Italy. Once we are provisioned up with Italian cheese and wine and the weather permits, we will make the 100 mile crossing to Croatia.
Branko
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| Entrance to Brindisi |
We got up really early to depart and finish the trip. There was no wind and the seas were calm - big difference. We motored all the way without incident and are in the Lega Navale Marina (34 euro/ night). This is our last stop in Italy. Once we are provisioned up with Italian cheese and wine and the weather permits, we will make the 100 mile crossing to Croatia.
Branko
Monday 23 July 2012
Rough Welcome From the Adriatic
Today we left Leuca with a forecast for fair winds to take us to Otranto, which is 25 miles up the Adriatic coast. Instead we close-hauled for 15 miles into 15 knots of wind and short, steep seas. We were making 6.5 knots of speed so it was fun, but when we had to round another cape, the wind increased and our new course would take us directly into the wind. So we bailed and sailed back towards and anchorage that was about 7 miles away. On the beam reach, we were making about 8 knots so that was fun too.
Once we got into the lee of some of the headlands, we started second-guessing our decision to turn back, rationalised why we shouldn't proceed with our original plan and turned around again to continue onwards to Otranto. Well, all our rationalising was wrong and we motored into 15 knots of wind and rough seas for the next 3 hours. That wasn't so fun, but we made it and are on the commercial wharf looking at doing it all over again tomorrow on our way to Brindisi or maybe even Croatia directly.
By the way, the weather forecasting for the Med seems, in general, to suck.
Branko
Once we got into the lee of some of the headlands, we started second-guessing our decision to turn back, rationalised why we shouldn't proceed with our original plan and turned around again to continue onwards to Otranto. Well, all our rationalising was wrong and we motored into 15 knots of wind and rough seas for the next 3 hours. That wasn't so fun, but we made it and are on the commercial wharf looking at doing it all over again tomorrow on our way to Brindisi or maybe even Croatia directly.
By the way, the weather forecasting for the Med seems, in general, to suck.
Branko
Sunday 22 July 2012
At The Heel of Italy
When we left Taormina, we made it to the town of Roccella Jonica and stayed at the marina overnight. After hearing and paying some of the high prices in marinas, 20 euros did not seem like such a bad deal. Along this stretch of coast there is a dearth of anchorages and marinas, so one is almost forced to stop in here. Given that, they could charge a lot more and offer a lot less. As it was, we enjoyed the layover and ate a great pizza at the nearby pizzeria.
We left the next day planning to do one of two things: travel the 45 miles to the southern cape that opens the Gulf of Taranto, or go the extra 80 miles across the Gulf itself to the cape that separates the Ionian Sea from the Adriatic Sea. We went with plan B and are in Leuca resting and waiting to turn the corner and head into the Adriatic.
The decision was made because the forecast called for a WNW wind that would give us a beam reach across over night. That forecast, like so many others, did not come true, and we sailed a broad reach for about 30 miles and then had to motor once the wind died. At least the forecast did not go wrong by blowing a gale instead.
Right now it is Sunday and we are at anchor in the bay in front of the town where the locals and tourists are boating and swimming. Weather permitting, we will head north along the Italian Adriatic coast and maybe reach Brindisi tomorrow where we will wait for fair winds to take us across to Croatia.
Branko
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| 1/2 meter pizza |
We left the next day planning to do one of two things: travel the 45 miles to the southern cape that opens the Gulf of Taranto, or go the extra 80 miles across the Gulf itself to the cape that separates the Ionian Sea from the Adriatic Sea. We went with plan B and are in Leuca resting and waiting to turn the corner and head into the Adriatic.
The decision was made because the forecast called for a WNW wind that would give us a beam reach across over night. That forecast, like so many others, did not come true, and we sailed a broad reach for about 30 miles and then had to motor once the wind died. At least the forecast did not go wrong by blowing a gale instead.
Right now it is Sunday and we are at anchor in the bay in front of the town where the locals and tourists are boating and swimming. Weather permitting, we will head north along the Italian Adriatic coast and maybe reach Brindisi tomorrow where we will wait for fair winds to take us across to Croatia.
Branko
Thursday 19 July 2012
Ciao Taormina e Sicilia
We just spent the last two nights at anchor at the base of the cliff where the town of Taormina is perched. The town is a few hundred feet above see level and straddles that cape that turns north into the Messina Strait. One can easily see mainland Italy from the town and is only about 20 miles across. It is a great place to stage for the crossing over the Strait.
The town of Taormina is enchanting and idyllic, but given over to tourism completely. Nevertheless, one has to see it because I am sure the pictures we took do not do it justice. In the town, there is a Greek amphitheater while above there are the ruins of a Saracen castle on one peak and a monastery on another, both of which overlook the town.
About 2 km away and another few hundred feet higher is the smaller town of Castelamola, crowding the top of a peak which yields magnificent views of Taormina, Mt. Etna smoking in the distance, the Italian mainlaind across the strait, and the whole coastline northwards and westwards. Maggie and I climbed up there in the blazing heat of the afternoon (there is a bus that can take you there from Taormina), but the "Path of the Saracens" was too alluring to pass up. Besides, we met an older French couple that looked barely able to tread level ground never mind the goat path that went up to Castelamola, and I was shamed into it. (They did make it, too). It was worth it even though we were sweating like inmates on a Mississippi chain gang. Along the way we stopped in to a little vaulted chapel that was built about 1900 years ago high on the hill overlooking everything. We took the bus down after a brief lunch in the ruins of the castle crowning the town.
Right now I am writing this as we motor along the toe of Italy, making our way northeastwards. It is delightfully warm and Maggie is sleeping in the cockpit while I write. We are a couple of miles offshore and the lights from the mainland are guiding us.
Despite the fact that we stayed in Sicily so long due to mechanical troubles that we had, we have no regrets because everywhere we went it was beautiful and the people were warm and friendly. We are sorry to leave it but we will return to see more. It would be a great place to spend the winter.
Branko
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| Taromina, from the boat |
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| Taromina, up there |
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| Dinghy aarea |
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| Taromina |
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| Looking over Messina strait |
The town of Taormina is enchanting and idyllic, but given over to tourism completely. Nevertheless, one has to see it because I am sure the pictures we took do not do it justice. In the town, there is a Greek amphitheater while above there are the ruins of a Saracen castle on one peak and a monastery on another, both of which overlook the town.
About 2 km away and another few hundred feet higher is the smaller town of Castelamola, crowding the top of a peak which yields magnificent views of Taormina, Mt. Etna smoking in the distance, the Italian mainlaind across the strait, and the whole coastline northwards and westwards. Maggie and I climbed up there in the blazing heat of the afternoon (there is a bus that can take you there from Taormina), but the "Path of the Saracens" was too alluring to pass up. Besides, we met an older French couple that looked barely able to tread level ground never mind the goat path that went up to Castelamola, and I was shamed into it. (They did make it, too). It was worth it even though we were sweating like inmates on a Mississippi chain gang. Along the way we stopped in to a little vaulted chapel that was built about 1900 years ago high on the hill overlooking everything. We took the bus down after a brief lunch in the ruins of the castle crowning the town.
Right now I am writing this as we motor along the toe of Italy, making our way northeastwards. It is delightfully warm and Maggie is sleeping in the cockpit while I write. We are a couple of miles offshore and the lights from the mainland are guiding us.
Despite the fact that we stayed in Sicily so long due to mechanical troubles that we had, we have no regrets because everywhere we went it was beautiful and the people were warm and friendly. We are sorry to leave it but we will return to see more. It would be a great place to spend the winter.
Branko
Sunday 15 July 2012
Arrival in Catania
Today we motored the 30 miles from Siracusa to Catania. We need to have a new exhaust elbow made here...yes, another mechanical problem. So we will probably be here for hopefully less than a week. The good news is that the transmission seems to be fixed, i.e. we go forward and reverse and nothing leaks.
The view coming into Catania is very impressive because the city lies at the foot of Mt. Etna, crowned with smoke rising from this active volcano. But the port is a working one and not very attractive. There are no anchorages, but we can Med moor against the wall for free. We will try it tomorrow and tell you how that works out. Wish us luck.
Branko
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| Mount Etna in background |
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| Catania market |
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| Catania fish market |
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| Fountain by market |
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| Catania, main square |
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| Elephant in Catania |
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| Catherdal Catania |
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| Building in Catania |
The view coming into Catania is very impressive because the city lies at the foot of Mt. Etna, crowned with smoke rising from this active volcano. But the port is a working one and not very attractive. There are no anchorages, but we can Med moor against the wall for free. We will try it tomorrow and tell you how that works out. Wish us luck.
Branko
Wednesday 11 July 2012
We Are In Siracusa
We are at anchor next to the the beautiful city of Siracusa. One great thing about living on a boat is that you often get the best views from where you happen to be. We will be here for a few days sorting out a few more mechanical issues and we will try to enjoy every minute of it.
Branko
Branko
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| Siracusa, Sicily |
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| Arriving Siracusa |
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| View of Siracusa from our anchorage |
Tuesday 10 July 2012
Marina di Ragusa Is Behind Us
It looks like the transmission is fixed and we have left Marina di Ragusa. We were hoping to make it to Siracusa but the winds around the corner of Sicily are a little stronger than forecast, so we are anchored in Porto Palo. It doesn't look like the kind of place to visit unless one is stuck here for a few days, so we will likely stay on board, cross our fingers, and hope for fair winds to take us the remaining 35 miles to Siracusa tomorrow, which is definitely worth visiting again.
Marina di Ragusa definitely looks like a great spot to spend the winter, inexpensive and situated in beautiful Sicily. If we don't find a good place to spend the winter in Croatia, we will go back there.
Branko
Friday 6 July 2012
Leaving Spain
Back in late May, I kissed my niece Naomi goodbye in Formentera, as she got on a ferry to Ibiza, all alone - my brave niece. She was going back to Rome to meet her Dad and brother Mark for a few days more, of Italian culture, a hot bath and big beds. Naomi was our crew for almost 3 weeks - she has left her mark here. A fantastic cook, she taught us, oh so subtly, how to tweak things to make food taste better. Branko now makes the best pancakes (shhhh don't tell him i said anything) and I fry up my onions and garlic differently; more flavor (and if you need to know more about these secrets, you must invite Naomi to visit.) Thank you Naomi, you are a wonderful person and can come back anytime.
Once we left Formentara, motor sailed to the next island, Mallorca, where we anchored in a lovely bay, swam and relaxed for a few hours. We pulled anchor up for a night sail to Mahon in the final island of Menorca. We arrived at first light and decided to take a tour of Mahon before anyone (in Mahon) woke up - it was beautiful, quiet, calm and only us motoring into a most historic bay. We got our bearings in a peaceful and awe inspiring way, deciding to anchor in the far bay about a mile or more away from the town proper. Beautiful bay, surrounded by ancient forts and hills - well protected, beaches and clean water to swim. We spent a number of days here, alternately swimming, walking through the forts, beach BB Q's, visiting the city of Mahon and Ciudadela - ancient towns full of history.
But wait, not only ancient but Menorca has the greatest concentration of prehistoric remains in the entire Mediterranean, including what is claimed to be the oldest building in Europe. There are a number of Neolithic caves and villages and many megalithic monuments such as talayots (towers), navetas (burial mounds) and taulas (T-shaped monuments) built by the bronze age tribe...that is all i know. but have some pics to view.
Forgot to mention, but Mahon (Menorca) is well known for its leather sandals (see pic), cheese (no pic) and its gin...yes delicious gin and a gin factory. I think a throw back from when the English ruled the place :-)
Finally we pulled up anchor and set sail, destination Sardinia - a potentially 4 day journey. Branko talks about our journey in his posts, so I will not repeat, but say that we did take 4 days to reach Sicily, where we rested (anchored) for a few hours in Mazara del Vallo. We pulled up anchor as the sun was setting and sailed down the coast for the town of Empedocle and anchored first thing in the morning, in lovely bay with 2 French boats. We spent a few days here, swinging on anchor, taking the dinghy to shore, shopping, listening to music in the square and travelling to the 'Temple of Neptune' at Agrigento; founded in 582BC by the Greeks, sacked by the Carthaginians and later by the Romans - it is now a UNESCO site so hopefully no more sacking.
Sicily is an island of UNESCO sites, almost all the towns and cities are UNESCO protected. Worth a trip because, it's not only piles of rocks/stones but most have been resurrected for our viewing pleasure, I can imagine the place better with rocks in place as opposed to them lying around on the ground...just saying, basically, that i have no great imagination so appreciate the help.
It's July and we are now, and have been for over 2 weeks in Marina di Ragusa. No, not Ragusa proper but a small tourist town on the south coast about 20 miles from Ragusa city. Not to repeat but our transmission is under repair and we are forced to relax in a town full of white sand beaches, cafes, lovely people, sun, and hot weather...sometimes i really do feel guilty and selfish.
While waiting we have traveled via bus to Ragusa, Modica, Siracussa and all small towns in between. All towns UNESCO sites - so you can just imagine how beautiful they are. Modica is known for its chocolate;still made from the Aztecs original recipe. You get chocolate that is made straight from the cacao beans, with no added cocoa butter or soy lecithin. The technique was brought over by the Spaniards in the 16th century. Modica, along with all of southern Italy, was under Spanish rule at the time.
Ragusa, well, you just have to see this place and walk down to the old town. Some pictures to pic your interest :-)
Siracusa (Syracuse) was once the most powerful city-state of Magna Graecia, rivalling Athens in power. Founded in 734 BC it became the largest fortified city of the Greek world. Archimedes 'slept here' - actually all jokes aside, here is some information on him http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archimedes - worth a read.
We hope to be leaving Ragusa Marina in the next few days and head around to Siracusa, weather permitting. From there continue up the coast to the boot of Italy, across the Messina straits and head to the toe, around the corner and up to Brindisi and perhaps Bari; before heading across the Adriatic for the town of Cavtat in the south of Croatia. So keep your fingers crossed and wish us good engine repair, weather and safe passage :-)
Thank you for coming along with us, we so enjoy your company.
Mag
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| Mahon, before waking up |
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| Menorca, Gin factory and Branko |
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| Ciuadella, Menorca |
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| Menorcan sandals |
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| Mahon |
Once we left Formentara, motor sailed to the next island, Mallorca, where we anchored in a lovely bay, swam and relaxed for a few hours. We pulled anchor up for a night sail to Mahon in the final island of Menorca. We arrived at first light and decided to take a tour of Mahon before anyone (in Mahon) woke up - it was beautiful, quiet, calm and only us motoring into a most historic bay. We got our bearings in a peaceful and awe inspiring way, deciding to anchor in the far bay about a mile or more away from the town proper. Beautiful bay, surrounded by ancient forts and hills - well protected, beaches and clean water to swim. We spent a number of days here, alternately swimming, walking through the forts, beach BB Q's, visiting the city of Mahon and Ciudadela - ancient towns full of history.
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| Branko, cannot resist a cave |
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| The Taula |
But wait, not only ancient but Menorca has the greatest concentration of prehistoric remains in the entire Mediterranean, including what is claimed to be the oldest building in Europe. There are a number of Neolithic caves and villages and many megalithic monuments such as talayots (towers), navetas (burial mounds) and taulas (T-shaped monuments) built by the bronze age tribe...that is all i know. but have some pics to view.
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| Sao, Branko and Connie (Life Part 2) |
Forgot to mention, but Mahon (Menorca) is well known for its leather sandals (see pic), cheese (no pic) and its gin...yes delicious gin and a gin factory. I think a throw back from when the English ruled the place :-)
Finally we pulled up anchor and set sail, destination Sardinia - a potentially 4 day journey. Branko talks about our journey in his posts, so I will not repeat, but say that we did take 4 days to reach Sicily, where we rested (anchored) for a few hours in Mazara del Vallo. We pulled up anchor as the sun was setting and sailed down the coast for the town of Empedocle and anchored first thing in the morning, in lovely bay with 2 French boats. We spent a few days here, swinging on anchor, taking the dinghy to shore, shopping, listening to music in the square and travelling to the 'Temple of Neptune' at Agrigento; founded in 582BC by the Greeks, sacked by the Carthaginians and later by the Romans - it is now a UNESCO site so hopefully no more sacking.
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| Empedocle |
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| Greek temples |
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| Temple of Neptune |
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| Lying down statue - Neptune |
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| Our first Sicilian pizza! |
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| Tapas Sicilian style |
Sicily is an island of UNESCO sites, almost all the towns and cities are UNESCO protected. Worth a trip because, it's not only piles of rocks/stones but most have been resurrected for our viewing pleasure, I can imagine the place better with rocks in place as opposed to them lying around on the ground...just saying, basically, that i have no great imagination so appreciate the help.
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| Ragusa |
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| Old town, Ragusa |
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| Ragusa |
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| Ragusa, steps to church |
It's July and we are now, and have been for over 2 weeks in Marina di Ragusa. No, not Ragusa proper but a small tourist town on the south coast about 20 miles from Ragusa city. Not to repeat but our transmission is under repair and we are forced to relax in a town full of white sand beaches, cafes, lovely people, sun, and hot weather...sometimes i really do feel guilty and selfish.
While waiting we have traveled via bus to Ragusa, Modica, Siracussa and all small towns in between. All towns UNESCO sites - so you can just imagine how beautiful they are. Modica is known for its chocolate;still made from the Aztecs original recipe. You get chocolate that is made straight from the cacao beans, with no added cocoa butter or soy lecithin. The technique was brought over by the Spaniards in the 16th century. Modica, along with all of southern Italy, was under Spanish rule at the time.
Ragusa, well, you just have to see this place and walk down to the old town. Some pictures to pic your interest :-)
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| Sicilian Limincello |
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| Modica in July |
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| One of 100 church's |
Siracusa (Syracuse) was once the most powerful city-state of Magna Graecia, rivalling Athens in power. Founded in 734 BC it became the largest fortified city of the Greek world. Archimedes 'slept here' - actually all jokes aside, here is some information on him http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archimedes - worth a read.
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| Siracusa |
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| Greek ruins, Siracusa |
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| Siracusa, main square |
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| Branko, helping to park a car |
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| Siracusa |
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| Modica, chocolate factory |
We hope to be leaving Ragusa Marina in the next few days and head around to Siracusa, weather permitting. From there continue up the coast to the boot of Italy, across the Messina straits and head to the toe, around the corner and up to Brindisi and perhaps Bari; before heading across the Adriatic for the town of Cavtat in the south of Croatia. So keep your fingers crossed and wish us good engine repair, weather and safe passage :-)
Thank you for coming along with us, we so enjoy your company.
Mag
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