Saturday, 25 May 2013

How to Defend a Fortress

After another semi-restful night here in Luka Vira on the island of Hvar, our resolve to storm the Napoleonic fortress in Hvar was firm.  The anchorage here isn't great because it is deep and not a lot of swinging room, so we tied our stern to shore and put our anchor out ahead of us - with some difficulty.  We had set up for southeast winds during the day but were expecting north winds - on the nose and pushing onto shore - overnight.

Stern tied to shore, Hvar

Anchored stern to shore, Hvar

The boat lies only about 50 or 60 feet from a rocky shore, so if the anchor let loose there wouldn't be much time to react.  It was another night of anchor watch.  It all turned out to be fine at around 1 a.m., and we got some sleep.

Morning came and our objective was the fortress. Armed with comfy shoes, hats, suntan lotion, some money, sunglasses, our Android tablet and other sundry gear, we marched the 5 km. across the island to the fortress that overlooks the town of Hvar.  The walls encircling the town and which are part of the fortress have stood in one form or another for over 7 centuries, but as it turned out they were completely unnecessary.

When Maggie and I arrived at the foot of the walls, we realized we had forgotten our camera: now there would be no photographic evidence of a successful siege.  When we approached the gates and read that there is a $5 fee to enter, well, we refused to enter.  What was the point if we didn't have a camera to take scenic pictures?  There was also a pictogram forbidding anyone from climbing on the wall.  So we trudged off toward town, defeated.  Nobody had cameras back in the day when wars were fought over this patch of island, so all they had to do was charge a fee to enter, and the problem of sieges is solved.

Fortunately, the town is gorgeous which took the sting out of defeat.  Sorry, no pictures.

Branko

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