Croatia - Cavtat to Rab

Our guest, Ilario left us mid-May returning to Italy via the daily ferry that runs between Bari and Dubrovnik.  

Ilario, relaxing

Painting tour of Dubrovnik

It was quieter now without Ilario, no laughing, no yelling happily and  no more drinking negronis everyday.   We had to leave Cavtat and begin our Croatian vacation.  

Dubrovnik harbour

See the line of people?

Dubrovnik, again

We motor sailed past beautiful Dubrovnik, which I believe is best seen from the water.   The views of the old city provides a different perspective,  the entire grandeur that is this city can be seen clearly in one panoramic sweep.  Instead of trying to see the sights through and over other tourists you are given an uncluttered vista.  Three years ago Croatia was not in the EU and I was interested to see the change, if any.

On watch....

Srebreno, a small, bullet ridden old Serbian resort area that we discovered 3 years sgo has had a facelift.   In the sandy anchorage a run down looking catamaran ( for day charters) was anchored in such a way that no one could anchor securely.   But I was still hopeful that the old style wood buildings serving typical Croatian food and beer still remained and (fingers crossed) the inexpensive supermarket still intact.   Ah but no, a Sheridan hotel had been built  and everything changed.   A new mall with a big Konsum and fancy restaurants had replaced the traditional seaside kiosks and grocery store.   It is not surprising as Srebreno is even closer to Dubrovnik than Cavtat and situated in a beautiful cove.

View in Sipanska Luka

Our  next destination was  the island of Sipan,  a favorite place of ours.   We anchored in the bay planning to spend a few days relaxing and happily (selfishly) saw nothing really had changed.  Sipanska Luka was still a quaint village.

One day we walked across the island to Sudra10 kilometres through farmlands, passing ancient villas and many little chapels.   Sudra is trying to become a wine destination with a few small vineyards.  Back in Sipanska we watched the ferry come and go each day.   One day we decided to take a ride instead of just looking, provision in Dubrovnik and walk around the old town one more time.   Dubrovnik was crowded.  Six cruise ships were docked and 3 more anchored in the harbour, large ships all of them.  But the city still remains spectacular, especially when I and a few thousand people can see where Game of Thrones is shot.   As we walked out into the harbour along the circular pier there were 20 or so people who obviously were tourists,  sitting along the pier painting.   That was their tour of Croatia, painting different sites.   I liked watching them.

Sipan ferry to Dubrovnik

Leaving Sipan with a forecast of southerly winds we sailed up the coast with Miljet on our left reaching the tip of Kortula where all wind died.   We had to motor north, past the beautiful town of Kortula, again best viewed from the sea.  Our destination, Loviste at the north end of the mainland where we decided to sit out some very strong south west winds, rain storms and lightening  They were quite breezy and we spent 2 days anchored securely watching an ominous cloud sit on top of the Orebic peak.   When the cloud disappeared so did the wind. 

Sibenik cathedral, faces of residents

Steps into Sibenik of old

Again we left with a good southerly wind that lasted an hour, so we anchored in the first place we found, a secluded sandy bay off Hvar.  It was nice to be visiting places before ithe area gets crowded.  Finally we got some great wind and we sailed all the way to Sibenik, a memorable sail.   In Sibenik we decided to anchor in the bay near the marina.    Excellent place, good holding and a short walk to chandlers, groceries, internet and Lidls.    We also walked into Sibenik old town,  an easy 15 minute walk.   I think Sibenik has the best outdoor market in Croatia, well worth a stop for food provisions.

Sibenik was hard to leave but we obviously did and motor sailed to Murter.  

Secluded anchorage, Hvarr

 A few days spent in this very protected harbour cleaning the hull, polishing stainless and meeting up with new friends from Hong Kong.  We had met Burkhart and Alice back in Cavtat said hello and goodbye but we keep running into them.    If everybody is heading in the same direction it's inevitable that you meet up somewhere.  

Next stop Dugi Otok, a great sail all the way to the north end of this beautiful island.   Bonus was no concessions in the bay, nice surprise.   Off early morning to Pag,  an island I had read was featureless and full of loud music.   Our one stop did not disappoint, but I'm willing to have another look on our way south because Pag has a cheese factory.  

Walk into Rab

We left again early morning, misty and grey, which made Pag look even more appealing, not.   But there is a cheese factory....onwards to the island of Rab,  about 15 nautical miles north east.   Now Rab town is a sight to see, green trees, mountains,  church steeples and orange roofs magnificent.

  Pictures to follow.
Mag