Sunday 29 June 2014

Tunisia, Observations.

We have been in Tunisia now for just under 3 weeks and I am enjoying each day.    Ramadan began Thursday evening,  and we look forward to experiencing the change.   Stayed tuned.
Alladin?and the magic dress

  My post is titled Observations,  so will now begin in a somewhat haphazard fashion,  hopefully it will make some sense.
Monastir Marina
As we drove through the desert and salt lakes,   we noticed a different kind of farmer.    One was a sand farmer, putting up 'sand fences' made of palm fronds to capture sand, why? no idea as there is loads of it here.   The second farmers were collecting rocks, in the very hot sun,  seems the large white ones were the most valuable.   Hard work.  Still no idea why.
When I think of Tunisia I think of dates (that you eat), camels, good, inexpensive food and generous people.   Two favorite foods are the brik a l'oeuf (egg fried in a pastry envelope) and the street food (OK, huge variety of street food, bread or chapati, filled with fish/meat, vegetables and hot sauce, and fried.)  Camels and dates because they are so neat and very different to what I find familiar.  Generous people, because the country is full of them.
On the beach I marvel at the women,  who wear head scarves, neck coverings, long pants, with full long sleeved dresses on top of the pants and then go swimming,  usually with a few children holding on to them.   I say swimming, but its more like wading up to your neck and then just standing there until you cool. down.   Sandra (my friend from s/v Deep Blue) asked a woman about how she felt wearing all these clothes,  and she was surprised we asked;  no problem she replied we wear comfortable light clothes...It did not look so light and comfortable coming out of the water, soaking wet and then having sand attach itself to every part of the material..as though the cloth wasn't heavy enough.
Yes, I will be running for office
Oases, southern Tunisia
I was trying to cross the road the other day and saw a 'learn to drive' car with the requisite learner and teacher;   I thought these people will stop, at the crosswalk; I stepped from the curb in anticipation of crossing the busy street,  but had to jump back to the curb as instead of allowing me to cross they nearly ran me over..never seeing me.   Guess its enough just looking for other cars, donkeys, horses, and camels, people must look after themselves.
Locals do not wear the lovely looking leather sandals sold by the tourist shops, they wear the rubber/plastic variety - as Branko has discovered the plastic flip flops have a longer life span.

In a little alley on my way to the dentist (yes having teeth worked on in Africa), it was early and rush hour traffic (pedestrian rush hour) had begun.  There was a line up of office workers, so intrigued I went to look;   it was Tunisian 'Tim Hortons' walk-thru.   A large, deep fried, flat, sweet dough wrapped up in paper was the offering, no coffee but mint tea was available.

Wedding dress, Monastir
The market advertises 'fresh meat'  and the varieties available in each individual stall,  by hanging the dead animals head out front.   Often have we turned too quickly and came face to face with the days special.  Not making fun,  just providing observations.
Wedding dresses vary depending upon regions.  Sfax which is considered a booming, progressive city showcases glittery gowns similar to North American styles, but with long sleeves and high necklines.  Whereas in the desert towns and in particular Monistir area the 'gowns' are woven tunics of various weaves and material, silk, cotton, with pants .. lots of material but stunningly different and beautiful.

Also a wedding dress
Everyone, especially men, joke.   Whether it is serving a coffee (hand it to you and then swiftly take it away, again and again),   telling you they ran out of material for your cushion covers and now the last cushion must be made in a hideous burnt orange glittery fabric, to spraying you with water as you pass by them.   This is common and you must laugh and not take anything seriously.

I have discovered that if a Tunisian 'asks' you to have a tea with them, look at a rug, sit on a Bey's throne and wear a funny hat,  put on a 'miracle' dress and model it, or eat something they have offered,  it is not a request.  You must obey.  Thank you Sandra for saving me more then once 8-)

So saying I will leave you with this adventure I had yesterday.  Pictures will be in the photo album to the right and below, keep looking.

Branko, weaving, Mahdia
Today branko and I had our hair cut,  at a barber shop.    I was pulled in,  unwilling,   but had to go since Sandra was not with me.    Not only did I get a haircut,  I was the only woman in a sea of men and boys (busy place,  standing room only ) I also had my eyebrows sculpted,   and my entire face 'pulled'  of all its hair  (I had no idea,  call me Sasquatch ) using thread twisted between the barbers fingers and his mouth (please,   no questions. .I had my eyes closed ),  then he disappeared (seems common enough,  the dentist did the same thing , except she left me with a blinding light in my eyes,  head cocked in a most uncomfortable position and the suction depleting me of all moisture in my body ),    I digress. ..he comes back with a black brow pencil and pink lipstick, which he applied  liberally. ...have you seen Groucho Marx?    I looked like his ugly sister.
Next the lipstick (it was pink,  thankfully my color ) which he kept applying and applying,  apparently hoping for some transformation, that had not appeared with the eyebrows.
Finally (after using a flat iron, on my head hair;  what barber has a flat iron?   Mind it was a bit dusty )  he gave up  (the crowd had grown and now they were lining up outside peering through the window )  and announced he was finished. 
Someone in the audience,  I mean a waiting customer,  says in English  "a new look for you"   
how polite :-)  
I had to smile (it was easy to smile,   he , my barber , was such a nice person and meant well ) as I was leaving he gave me the lipstick. ..all for 10 euros :-)  
FYI  I had no idea,  nor any inclination  that my 'hair cut'  would include all the above ....I have a feeling the barber didn't know either.
Maggie



Our haircuts, Tunisian styles


My new look, no touch ups added.

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