If We Had Day Jobs We'd Be Keeping Them

Marina di Ragusa

Dec. 2014

One of the cruising couples wintering here in Marina di Ragusa organized an open mic night at a local bar. Anybody that could perform a song had a chance to get up on "stage" and exhibit their talent, which ranged from tiny to tremendous.

Maggie started playing the ukulele a little while ago, so she formed a duo with another uke-playing lady to form the "Ukelele Girls" and they played "Jackson".  Maggie and I played a John Prine tune called "In Spite of Ourselves" (thanks Far Out).  I played a duet with a friend (I choked) and a couple by myself with better results.  

It was great fun and a wonderful opportunity to try something new.  I am looking forward to the next gig and, perhaps, a recording contract in the future.

Branko

Tunisia to Sicily 2014

It seems usual for me to start a blog with an apology for tardy updates.   Branko, reminds me often but somehow I always have an excuse;  even though I enjoy reliving my adventures,  I procrastinate.   Enough of my self discovery, on to the stories.

Tunisian beauty 

Quick update:   Tunisia was wonderful, my eyebrows have returned to normal, Mahdia (south of Monastir) was an experience complete with the Libyan Fishermen, Ramadan, and tasty French pastries. Obviously I have highlighted the most important details;  beauty treatments, fishermen and food.
We motor sailed from Mahdia overnight to the Italian island of Lampedusa, south of Malta, center of the Sicilian Straits (east end.)  We never went to shore but spent a number of days anchored in lovely bays, with friendly Italian tourists during the day and all alone at night.

We sailed overnight to Malta and as we entered the Malta waters (5 miles off the west coast) we plowed through lime green florescent jelly fish that rose to the surface in the early morning darkness. As our bow came skimming across the surface a band of dolphins joined the party.  We sailed, they swam and the jellies, well they just hung around for an hour.  The longest time we have had dolphins or lime green blobs join us. It was magical, complete with a sky full of stars.
 

City of Medina

Neolithic figure

Malta, Grand Harbour

 
 Beautiful Malta, inhabited from 5,200BC by stone age farmers to 2,500BC where an advanced society thrived and built temples and underground chambers made from rock..  But then 'phew' they disappeared, and in 800BC the Phoenicians sailed in and ruled the islands of Malta and Gozo.  Romans arrived next in 218BC and from then on Malta seemed to be under Roman, Arab, St. John Knights, France, Spain and British rule.   These two small islands, maintain phenomenal architecture, neolithic sights,  battle history, blends of cultures/languages and the St. John Knights (who still have their head office,  in Valletta.) The St. John Knights were an order of monks who cared for sick Christian pilgrims.  Similar to the Crusaders, they ended up becoming knights to protect the pilgrims from harm. In 1530 the St. John Knights ended up in Malta. They had been kicked out of Israel, Rhodes and Cyprus.  Today the knights still help the sick, St. Johns Ambulance ring a bell?

My point for summarizing Maltese history you ask?  Go visit Malta!  Small compact islands packed with a punch of beauty, history, easy transport, beaches and 'fantasy like' cities; all in easy reach of each other.  Oh and the people are very nice and pastizzis are sold everywhere, yum.

Travelling inland Sicily

We arrived in Sicily the beginning of September, it is now the end of November and I have no idea where the time has gone.   OK, we did have guests for October and a little bit in November, and we adopted a couple of dogs, but besides that....

Dinner in Enna

Linda and Gene arrived in Sicily mid October (blog from said peoples coming soon, yes?) but for now I will provide an overview of their visit.  Weather perfect! Hot - beach - swimming - temperatures; except for the last day when we jumped in the freezing water, but we survived, barely.
What a great time.  We drove across Sicily,  first visiting Agrigento (the Greek and Roman temples), turned right and went straight north to Palermo.   One night in Palermo (unfortunately) but we saw much, alleys coming alive with markets, bars, restaurants and vibrant people as the sun set.  Gritty, busy, friendly, and as always full of history.  The mummies (Branko showcased in another blog) amazing what they could do with a body.

Vegetable truck

BBQ at the apt

Gene the navigator took us to parts of Sicily, we believe, have yet to be discovered; down steep drives, through pencil thin streets and chased by feral dogs.  But he also found us the best roast chicken in Sicily, made us laugh when he talked to his Garmin, and he appreciated every single thing we ate, saw and did.  Linda, the cool cat, just stayed calm and provided the Zen like atmosphere we all needed.

Linda, Catania Market

From Palermo we drove to Cefalu, wandered the ancient (touristy) town and decided to drive to Enna (in the center of Sicily) since the day was still young.  Amazing scenery, winding roads, mountain top towns, castles sitting on peaks, old stone farms and rock fences..olive and orange groves, bright colorful flowers, sheep, shepherds and goats in trees.   Enna turned out to be a bust for spending the night, but it was getting late and we were hungry.   Branko parked beside the Norman fort at the very top of Enna, opened the trunk and announced it was dinnertime 8-)  Luckily we had cheese, bread, cold beer, vegetables and well, everything you need for a picnic. Locals just smiled at us and the cars drove around us, no one batting an eye.

Our rental car, Alpha Romeo

Palermo

 But we still needed a place to stay, so off to Piazza
Armerina an hours drive south.  After much fussing about trying to determine where the main area of the town was, we turned a corner and arrived in an old Baroque city, just like that.  Branko drove until there was no more road left,  up, up and more up until we arrived beside a stunning cathedral in a large plaza.   We stayed the night at the hotel overlooking this plaza, but first we had to walk around town. The village vegetable/fruit truck seller was in the main plaza. (during the day the truck winds its way down all the narrow streets, selling directly to the homeowners.)  Linda, always interested in the varieties of foods, went to have a look.   Well, that just stopped all commerce and the clients and the sellers had to converse with us all, even though we did not speak Sicilian nor did they speak English.   We left with a round cucumber, a melon and wine (from a wine merchant) and sat on a bench outside the cathedral. Drinking our new wine and eating a strange cucumber and juicy melon...magical night.

Meggie and Linda, Modica

Messina Straits

My niece Megan arrived for a week and we all moved into a cute apartment right on the beach.   Branko and I still went home to sleep but spent all other time in the apartment,or on the  beach or driving around with Linda, Gene and Megan.  Visits to nearby UNESCO towns were done in the mornings and then we would spend the afternoons on the beach.  Ragusa, Sicili, Modica, Siracussa and Catania.   A drive around the towns surrounding Etna, looking for pistachios (out of season) and getting lost helped us arrive in CastelMola in time to see the view above Taormina overlooking the Messina Straits. Of course no time in Sicily is complete without a visit to the Catania fish market and the huge everyday market....we found loads of treasures including roti, samosas and onion bahiji, in Sicily!

Gene, Branko and Linda

Nobodies home Linda

Foot Laundry, Cefalu

Linda and Meggie

Meggie, Modica

The Family, Modica

Linda and Gene, Cefalu

Before we knew it Linda, Gene and Megan had left and Terri and Drew arrived (blog coming soon?) Terri and Drew are regular visitors to the boat and we always look forward to their visits.  We left almost immediately travelling, west down the coast to Sciacca.  A pretty town surrounded by Norman walls and city gates.  Quick stop and then on to our destination for two nights, Marsala.  Home to Marsala wines.  The town was well looked after (due to the tourist trade perhaps) pretty with a Norman feel and as usual the entrance to the town are via stone gates.  We did not visit any wineries but spent 2 lovely evenings in our rental home.   Beautiful house with a well kept garden, olive, orange and almond trees, statues, flowery plants and completely protected by a wall and gate, I guess its a Sicilian/Norman thing.

Terri and Drew

Sicilian horse and cart

A drive to Trapani to see the windmills and then up to Erice the Norman town that still retains its buildings, fort, castle and atmosphere.  Fantasical Erice,  unaffected by the earthquake/s that leveled south-eastern Sicilian towns in 1693. Trapani was the port for Erice back in Norman times; what a climb the Stevedors must have had,  as its straight up, for days.   Nestled on the top of a crag, unseen from most sides of the valley below.  The buildings blend into the rock,  wait! the buildings are built into the rock and the interior also made from the same rock.  An entire city hiding from view.  If you ever wanted to see what a Norman town, complete with castle and fort would have looked like back in Norman times, get on the next flight to Erice, you won't be disappointed.

Taromina Goofballs

Taromina shoreline

Terri, Catania market

More beautiful drives through the Sicilian country, making our way to Taormina.   The weather was getting a little cooler and wetter but our walk through Taormina was perfect.   A drive along the coast, south to Catania was peaceful and excellent views of Mt Etna with snow.   That evening in Catania Branko received a notice that a cyclone was due to hit Marina di Ragusa and that everyone should remain in their boats...we were 2 hours away and would never make it back before the cyclone was to hit.   Good people on our dock kept an eye on our boat and said that if anything happened they would deal with it or at least call us 8-)   Alas the cyclone did hit, but into Malta and the winds here ended up being lighter then they had for weeks,  go figure.

Terri, Catania Fish Market Fountain

Now we all know that McDonalds is a no-no to eat at when travelling.  Because, we should always try local foods right?  But it was raining and we had to wait for our pension and we needed a bathroom and there was a McD's right there....I love Terri, she ordered a beer (cause they sell wine and beer) and little Italian panzarottis, no chicken nuggets for Terri.

Eating Italian McD style

Both Linda and Terri are fantastic chefs, so we ate almost all our meals in-house,  BBQ's at the apartment, fresh green salads, mussels in wine,  fresh (strange) fruit, seafood pasta...and so much more.  Linda taught us how to ferment vegetables with whey and now we are living on sauerkraut made by Branko!  Thank you Terri for the caraway seeds, as they are a secret ingredient for delicious fermented cabbage, shhhh.

So no pressure to my two friends for their blogs,  I know they will eventually arrive.  But until that time please enjoy the summary and the pictures.

Oh and we have two very cute dogs now, who both have quite the personalities.   Branko has had no time to work on the boat,  with combing the puppies hair, taking them for walks, dressing them up in ribbons (OK not yet but David did buy them ribbons and gave it to Branko as a gift) feeding and training them and just gazing at them as they sleep.   I best start learning how to run electrical wires, check engine things and talk about boat stuff, more intelligently, just in case 8-)

Branko hard at work

New Crew on H2obo

Marina di Ragusa
15/11/2014

We would like to introduce to you Roseberry and Wycliffe.  They are a five month old brother/sister team that we took on here in Sicily.  They have no sailing experience, but they are quickly learning to poop on the paper and are extremely cute.

Rosie and Wylie

Apart from fleas (now gone), they have already picked up how to walk on their leads, fetch, bark at dogs, and look adorable.

Intensive training with the skipper

The Sicilian Mummies - just in time for Hallowe'en

During the recent visit by our friends, Gene and Linda, we paid a visit to the Capuchin's Chapel catacombs to see the mummies.  Yep, I said mummies.... in Sicily!

400 years old and still hanging in there

Four hundred years ago, the Capuchin monks began mummifying their dead brethren and the practice caught on among the middle and upper classes of society.  After the mummification process, people were dressed by the monks in the clothing, often their best finery, they wished to be presented in.  Then they were hung up on the wall or laid out in a viewing coffin.

 

It sounds gruesome, but really it is all fascinating.  There is a men's corridor, a lady's one, a children's one, one for professionals, and even one for virgin women. But there is no virgin men's section; I guess Sicilian men never died before gettin' it on.

Branko

Back in Sicily

Sicily
September, 2014

After a short cruising season, H2OBO is back in Marina di Ragusa for the winter.  We are happy to be back because Sicily and its people are so wonderful.

Even though it was a short season we did visit two new countries and had a great time.  The weather was perfect and there were no problems with any of our equipment.

We are planning to do a lot of work on our floating home to get her ship-shape for next season when we go to Greece and Turkey.

Branko

Living in Malta

Valletta with traditional Maltese boat

Malta
August 2014

A marvelous month has gone by since we got to Malta, and I do not know where to begin telling you what we have been doing.  Not because we have done so many things but because we have been so comfortable living in this perfect little country.

Arrival to Malta,  Valletta

Tug in the Grand Harbour

Roofs of Valletta

The country consists of three islands, two of which are inhabited, with a population less than four hundred thousand people.   The islands sit in an area 25 miles by 10 miles in the middle of the Sicilian straight about 50 miles from Sicily.  Prehistoric ruins are scattered over the islands but the primary settlers of the islands were Phoenecians, and their language forms the basis for the Maltese language.  All the major Mediterranean civilisations lived and died here, but it is owing to the Order of St. John's Hospitallers that Malta has its defining character. Those crusading monks were driven from their stronghold in Rhodes by Suleiman the Great and were granted the islands by the pope in 1530.  They became the Knights of Malta and harried Ottoman shipping so effectively that the Sultan again vowed to drive the knights from their stronghold.  The year was 1565 and Suleiman sent a force of 40,000 men to rub out the 8,500 men, 6,000 of whom were miltia, who were defending Malta.  Against great odds and thanks to

Malta

After leaving Mahdia, we spent three idyllic days at anchor in Lampedusa under the Q flag, so we never even went to shore. Instead we enjoyed the sun, scenery and swimming.

We left with a perfect sailing forecast for the 100 mile trip to Malta, but we set off motoring and in the end motored all the way under calm conditions.  That, at least, is the next best alternative.

We are now moored in Sliema creek and are feverishly anticipating a hike through the historic and fabulous Valletta.  We plan on spending a few weeks exploring Malta .

Branko

Tah tah, Tunisia

Mahdia, Tunisia
July, 2014

We spent a month in Monastir and now we have spent just over a week in Mahdia, which is 30nm south.  We have been tied up to a Libyan trawler in the fishing port.  There is no marina here and that suits us well.  It costs 10 dinars per day, which equals about 4 euros.  Everybody is very friendly especially our neighbors.  Captain Mohammed has showered us with gifts including sweet and savory snacks, a delicious Libyan watermelon, a couple of jerry cans of diesel, and a heavy duty tuna rig, with instructions, that is guaranteed to catch a fish on the way to Malta.  Our gifts in return have been a deck of playing cards with maple leaves on them, a Canadian flag, a jar of my hot sauce, and some of Maggie's baking.  The owner of the boat, also named Mohammed, assures us that we would have a delightful time in the event that we visited Libya.  We will consider doing just that next spring to get to Turkey.

Mahdia is a typical Tunisian coastal resort town, but in ancient times it played an important role as a fortified trading port beginning with the Phoenicians.  The town is situated on a peninsula which was then completely encircled by a wall that stood until the Spanish razed it in their campaign to oust the Arabs from Spain several hundred years ago.  The town is also well known for the weavers of silk and cotton cloth that toil for a pittance in small shops in the medina using methods that are as ancient as the town. We splurged on a few beautiful examples of their work.  The weavers' big payday comes when they are commissioned to make an outrageously elaborate bridal costume, which will cost upwards of three thousand euros and take a couple of months to make.  I am not sure what the average annual per capita income is in Tunisia, but I suspect it is below the cost of the bridal gown.  This I say because a young man working on a boat in Monastir told me he would like to find work in Europe because it was very expensive to get married in Tunisia.

It looks like our time here is coming to an end. The forecast for sailing to Malta looks good for a departure tomorrow. We might make a brief stop in Lampedusa on the way just to be able to swim while at anchor, something that we have both missed very much during our port days.  Tunisia has been a great destination and we look forward to returning next spring when we move eastward.

Branko

Our Anniversary: 4 years and Lovin' it

Monastir, Tunisia
July 1, 2014

Happy Anniversary Branko!  Thank you, for everything.

Here I sit in Tunisia,  four years after leaving Toronto.   As Nadia says, "we went straight and returned in a week,  you turned left and have yet to return."  and now we are in Africa.
That left hand turn was a doozy.

Memories of Charlie and Peg, setting off with us for the first 3 days' adventure.  Fireworks at anchor, drifting down the lake (our anchor had let go) having coffee and marveling at the passing landscape, and laughing.  As these years pass,  I still remember fondly and vividly this particular trip, which remains close to my heart.

I reflect, at how time has slowed down.  Although, surprised that 4 years have passed so quickly,  I appreciate the fullness of this life which marks each day as an individual experience.  A tally of new places, people and knowledge that I feel would have taken my entire lifetime to amass.
One common thread however, in all the travelling is the wonderment, kindness and generosity of people worldwide,  other cruisers, friends of friends, locals, children and new family.  Regardless of language and cultural differences,  people have been my greatest joy.

From Richard and Diane in Quebec, to Geri and Alan in Bahamas, Yoshi and Fumi in the Azores, Conchi, Lidia and the Almerimar/Murgiverde team in Spain, Branko's Croatian family, Katie, Tim, Molly and Louie in Montenegro, Lazy Bones - Jeff and Gayle,  Marina di Ragusa group (so many special people) and recently new friends here in Tunisia, and so many more people I have yet to list.
Of course the adventures we are having mean little, without our good friends and family in Canada, who will always be with us no matter where we go.  

Thank you all for making life so wonderful.

Maggie (Margaret)

Tunisia, 2014

Happy anniversary, Maggie.  Thanks for helping make it all happen.

As I sit here this morning, the eve of our fourth anniversary of our departure from Canada, singing and playing guitar while hiding from the blast-furnace winds that seem to blow directly from the blazing African sun, I hear the call to prayer from the mosque here in Monastir.  Ramadan has begun in Tunisia, the holy month for Muslims when they abstain from any nourishment and sex during the daylight hours.  They are probably praying for the sun to set early.

Singing and playing guitar!  Did I just hear myself say that?  That's new.  I also hear languages being spoken.  From our Italian neighbors across the dock I can grasp the meaning of a few phrases thanks to our stay in Sicily; from the locals I hear Arabic and I will likely never understand any of it.  Tunisia is a former French colony and French is spoken here by many as a second language, so I have been trying to learn a little because it will also be useful elsewhere in the world.  There are, unfortunately, no Spaniards about and my Spanish is getting rusty, as is my Croatian now that we aren't there any longer. No worries, though, we'll be back in those places soon enough.

Abstaining!?  Nobody I know back home is doing any of that, unless they have to, nor are many of the hundreds of people that we met since leaving. But a few of the friends that we have made here probably are.  There certainly are a number of different ways to spend your life's time, and it certainly depends on where you are but, more importantly, on what you are.  Be rich or poor, be joyful or despondent, be healthy or unwell, be urbane or a hick, be in possession of things or having them repossessed, be hardworking or lazy, they all count if you make it count. The hard part is learning how.

Pardon my philosophizing, but for me it's now unavoidable.  Over the past four years I have spent my days beholding the beauty of nature and cowering from it, entering a new culture and trying to understand what makes people different and what makes them similar, reading of the history of the places that we visit, getting to know people like I have never wanted to before and just plain trying to understand them.  I am learning to count.

I know the times they are a'changin and I think to myself ... what a wonderful world ... as it drifts by our little boat.  I also know that it is we who might be wonderfully drifting, but a very wise man determined that it's all a matter of relativity.  It doesn't matter either way; because, it's the appreciation of the motion that counts.  Forgive me Mr. Einstein.

Branko

Tunisia, Observations.

We have been in Tunisia now for just under 3 weeks and I am enjoying each day.    Ramadan began Thursday evening,  and we look forward to experiencing the change.   Stayed tuned.

Alladin?and the magic dress

  My post is titled Observations,  so will now begin in a somewhat haphazard fashion,  hopefully it will make some sense.

Monastir Marina

As we drove through the desert and salt lakes,   we noticed a different kind of farmer.    One was a sand farmer, putting up 'sand fences' made of palm fronds to capture sand, why? no idea as there is loads of it here.   The second farmers were collecting rocks, in the very hot sun,  seems the large white ones were the most valuable.   Hard work.  Still no idea why.
When I think of Tunisia I think of dates (that you eat), camels, good, inexpensive food and generous people.   Two favorite foods are the brik a l'oeuf (egg fried in a pastry envelope) and the street food (OK, huge variety of street food, bread or chapati, filled with fish/meat, vegetables and hot sauce, and fried.)  Camels and dates because they are so neat and very different to what I find familiar.  Generous people, because the country is full of them.
On the beach I marvel at the women,  who wear head scarves, neck coverings, long pants, with full long sleeved dresses on top of the pants and then go swimming,  usually with a few children holding on to them.   I say swimming, but its more like wading up to your neck and then just standing there until you cool. down.   Sandra (my friend from s/v Deep Blue) asked a woman about how she felt wearing all these clothes,  and she was surprised we asked;  no problem she replied we wear comfortable light clothes...It did not look so light and comfortable coming out of the water, soaking wet and then having sand attach itself to every part of the material..as though the cloth wasn't heavy enough.

Yes, I will be running for office

Oases, southern Tunisia

I was trying to cross the road the other day and saw a 'learn to drive' car with the requisite learner and teacher;   I thought these people will stop, at the crosswalk; I stepped from the curb in anticipation of crossing the busy street,  but had to jump back to the curb as instead of allowing me to cross they nearly ran me over..never seeing me.   Guess its enough just looking for other cars, donkeys, horses, and camels, people must look after themselves.
Locals do not wear the lovely looking leather sandals sold by the tourist shops, they wear the rubber/plastic variety - as Branko has discovered the plastic flip flops have a longer life span.

In a little alley on my way to the dentist (yes having teeth worked on in Africa), it was early and rush hour traffic (pedestrian rush hour) had begun.  There was a line up of office workers, so intrigued I went to look;   it was Tunisian 'Tim Hortons' walk-thru.   A large, deep fried, flat, sweet dough wrapped up in paper was the offering, no coffee but mint tea was available.

Wedding dress, Monastir

The market advertises 'fresh meat'  and the varieties available in each individual stall,  by hanging the dead animals head out front.   Often have we turned too quickly and came face to face with the days special.  Not making fun,  just providing observations.
Wedding dresses vary depending upon regions.  Sfax which is considered a booming, progressive city showcases glittery gowns similar to North American styles, but with long sleeves and high necklines.  Whereas in the desert towns and in particular Monistir area the 'gowns' are woven tunics of various weaves and material, silk, cotton, with pants .. lots of material but stunningly different and beautiful.

Also a wedding dress

Everyone, especially men, joke.   Whether it is serving a coffee (hand it to you and then swiftly take it away, again and again),   telling you they ran out of material for your cushion covers and now the last cushion must be made in a hideous burnt orange glittery fabric, to spraying you with water as you pass by them.   This is common and you must laugh and not take anything seriously.

I have discovered that if a Tunisian 'asks' you to have a tea with them, look at a rug, sit on a Bey's throne and wear a funny hat,  put on a 'miracle' dress and model it, or eat something they have offered,  it is not a request.  You must obey.  Thank you Sandra for saving me more then once 8-)

So saying I will leave you with this adventure I had yesterday.  Pictures will be in the photo album to the right and below, keep looking.

Branko, weaving, Mahdia

Today branko and I had our hair cut,  at a barber shop.    I was pulled in,  unwilling,   but had to go since Sandra was not with me.    Not only did I get a haircut,  I was the only woman in a sea of men and boys (busy place,  standing room only ) I also had my eyebrows sculpted,   and my entire face 'pulled'  of all its hair  (I had no idea,  call me Sasquatch ) using thread twisted between the barbers fingers and his mouth (please,   no questions. .I had my eyes closed ),  then he disappeared (seems common enough,  the dentist did the same thing , except she left me with a blinding light in my eyes,  head cocked in a most uncomfortable position and the suction depleting me of all moisture in my body ),    I digress. ..he comes back with a black brow pencil and pink lipstick, which he applied  liberally. ...have you seen Groucho Marx?    I looked like his ugly sister.
Next the lipstick (it was pink,  thankfully my color ) which he kept applying and applying,  apparently hoping for some transformation, that had not appeared with the eyebrows.
Finally (after using a flat iron, on my head hair;  what barber has a flat iron?   Mind it was a bit dusty )  he gave up  (the crowd had grown and now they were lining up outside peering through the window )  and announced he was finished. 
Someone in the audience,  I mean a waiting customer,  says in English  "a new look for you"   
how polite :-)  
I had to smile (it was easy to smile,   he , my barber , was such a nice person and meant well ) as I was leaving he gave me the lipstick. ..all for 10 euros :-)  
FYI  I had no idea,  nor any inclination  that my 'hair cut'  would include all the above ....I have a feeling the barber didn't know either.
Maggie

Our haircuts, Tunisian styles

My new look, no touch ups added.