DENIED....Again!

Provincetown, Cape Cod

The fickle hand of the weather gods slammed shut the weather window on us again as we motored our way into the wind towards Groten.  The forecast changed and called for thunderstorms and gales blowing 45 knots.  Fortunately, New Bedford, the old and historic whaling town of Moby Dick fame, was conveniently near us when we decided to make for its safe harbour.

Sailing to New Bedford

Now we wait on a mooring for the wind to slacken so that we can motor over to the customs dock and check in and, finally, get off the boat.  We have not set foot on terra firma for six days because we have been flying the quarantine flag and will do so until customs checks us in.

Hurricane wall  with gate, New Bedford

We can not wait to explore New Bedford.  It is a thriving fishing port and an actual hurricane hole with a large wall across the harbour entrance and a gate that closes against a storm surge.  There is also the famous whaling museum and all kinds of sea going vessels to see.  But it will have to wait until tomorrow because the wind is blowing too hard to motor over to the customs dock.

Landfall in Cape Cod

We left the Brooklyn marina on the 23rd with the intention of sailing directly to Cape Cod. We were traveling with three other boats: REBOOT, HOBO II, and, EXCALIBER. The latter boat had been in there for about a month with engine trouble and was finally ready to join us in the move south.
Once underway, the wind had died down and on came the engines, at which point EXCALIBER found he had water in his fuel. So he left he flotilla and we have not heard from him since. And then there three.

Brooklyn, Nova Scotia

Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

The supposed 3-day weather window abruptly shut when we rounded the 'corner' off Brazil Rock and we decided to seek shelter from the strong adverse winds that would blow us north. We made for Yarmouth to await favourable winds.
We had a chance to look around the town and it had the look and feel of a dying town at the edge of the world. As everywhere in Nova Scotia the people were very friendly, so our brief stay was pleasant.
The fair winds returned so our flotilla of three left port at midnight in thick fog to take advantage of the high-tide currents. This was the first time that Maggie and I did anything like that, so it was exciting. Once out we set sail westbound for Cape Cod.

Voyage across the Gulf of Maine

Cape Cod

The passage is 230 nm. long, so we were going to be out for over 48 hours. There are strong currents that flow in and out of the Gulf of Maine, to and from the Bay of Fundy, so winds and currents can create some confused seas. The northeasterly wind that was blowing us on a downwind tack was creating some impressive seas, but it was taking its toll on HOBO II's autopilot and Jim had to hand steer the entire time. Without being able to rest, Jim decided to head for Gloucester. As I write this, we have not heard of Jim's safe arrival, but our traveling companion on REBOOT has put out the word through the Maritime Mobile Net on ham frequency 14.300 mhz to keep a look out for him.
The entire crew of H20B0 was greatly relieved to pick up the mooring in Provincetown for a good night sleep. Only Sophie managed to get any shut-eye during the entire 46 hour passage. We came in with fog and woke up to sunshine. Unfortunately, Provincetown is not a customs entry point, so we cannot leave the boat. We will stay on the ball until we leave tomorrow morning bound for the Cape Cod Canal and Groten, CT.
NEWS FLASH: HOBO II has been located in Rockport, ME, and we will meet up with him later on.

Moving on from Hubbard's Cove

Well, we got Maggie's nose fixed in Bridgewater last Tuesday and it was time to leave. We needed a good short trip to shrug off the spell of bucolic Hubbard's Cove. The people that we met there were, without exception, wonderful. We could have easily stayed longer and enjoyed the hospitality of the folks there and the companionship of our friends down the road, but it is getting cold and it is time to move on if we still intend to follow the warmth.

Lunenburg from the harbour

Lunenburg was the perfect destination: far away enough to make us feel that we covered some ground and very picturesque. We had been there earlier in the summer with our friends, Terri and Drew, but we hitchhiked from the town of Mahone Bay, where we were docked. Lunenburg is so pretty that we had to stay on a wharf so that we could easily disembark and walk around.  

We figured that we would have to spend a couple of days in Lunenburg to wait for some decent weather to get us down the coast. It is getting tricky because gales are blowing in the north and hurricanes are still passing in the Atlantic.

Earlier on we had met some cruisers who had said that they remembered seeing us in Whitby, which was a mystery because we never stopped there. The confusion arose because there is another Corbin sailboat on Lake Ontario called HOBO II, and it had left this summer sailing down the St. Lawrence. Not a half hour after we docked in Lunenburg, HOBO II docked alongside us with its crew of one – Jim. He left Penatanguishine and sailed to Newfoundland for a family reunion and is making his way down to Panama bound for the Pacific Ocean. Seeing us cleared up a similar confusion his friends who were tracking his progress on ShipTrak were having. They were seeing us, H2OBO, instead of him and were insisting that his boat name was wrongly spelled. A good chuckle was had by all.  

Jim had told us that he had met another solo sailor, named Roger, on a boat called REBOOT in St. John's, NFLD. Roger pulled in the next day in his Catalina 42. We all got together and agreed that we would buddy boat down the eastern seaboard together.  So together we will be for the next few weeks.

After three nights in scenic Lunenburg, we had a chance to leave and we set out for Brooklyn, N.S. We are currently at the Brooklyn Marina and enjoying the warm hospitality of the folks here. On the western shore of the cove is the Bowater Mersey pulp mill; check out how they unload the highway tractors carrying wood fibre!

That is a highway tractor hauling two trailers!

Our little flotilla will likely be here for a couple more days as we wait for a weather window to head down the coast and then to cross the Gulf of Maine. Maggie and I are using the time to do a little maintenance and to make a few changes on the boat. Sophie also went to nearby Liverpool for a visit to the vet to get her rabies shot so that she can enter the U.S.

We just finished a supper of freshly caught mackeral that a young fellow named Brandon caught for us here in the cove. Later Maggie and I will be rocked gently to sleep as a 30 kt wind blows H2OBO at its mooring.  What bliss!

Branko

Birthday Nose Job

Every year, on my birthday I read the Globe and Mail,  and the Toronto Star's 'if today is your birthday' section of the horoscopes.
Last year,  as I moved on to the boat,  left my job and became a full time boat builder with Branko - my horoscope stated that next year at this time,   I would be surprised with where I would be.   I laughed at this,   thinking no way could I be surprised,  since I could be anywhere.

Well I was surprised.

Sunday September 12th  I was standing beside a flogging jib sheet.  it hit me in the face with a force that broke my nose in two places.  I quickly submerged my face in the freezer,  using a semi-frozen pork loin to  stop the pain - I soon moved to frozen vegetables as they were more pliable and did not leak meat juice down my face.

I thought it was just a bruise,  but when Branko looked, my nose was now S shaped.  Off to Emergency - thank goodness for Margaret, and Ken's truck - nothing could be done in emergency,  nor the next day at the clinic with the plastic surgeon -  however Tuesday September 14th, my birthday, saw me suiting up for surgery -the gown, the fasting, the cardiogram (say what??) and the requisite waiting period.

All was good though,  the plastic surgeon began our first conversation with "let me look at your sna-az"  and well,  I was hooked - he was great cause I got to put my clothes back on, got my nose frozen (hurt like heck) and then he casually "re-set" my nose back to its original straight beak.

You should see the other guy....

Voila,  I got a nose job for my birthday.  And yes, Branko is taking credit for the "job" as a birthday gift...

Maggie

Hanging around Hubbards

We left Mahone Bay at the end of August and sailed over to Hubbard's Cove (Black Harbour was filmed here) where our friends Ken and Margaret  live.   We had missed this spot on our way to Chester -  it is quite beautiful.  We took a mooring ball just off the fishing dock, and well, we are still here.

Hubbard's Cove

Drew and Terri - lobster dinner

Fishing boats (Hubbards) during the Hurricane

Before Terri and Drew left we enjoyed a huge lobster dinner at the Shore Club in Hubbards.  What a feast,  a salad bar that really was a salad bar (those who know me,  know how I love my veggie),  never ending mussels,  warm buns (yum), a delicious lobster each and to top it all off, home made desserts - in a parish hall type setting with red checkered tableclothes - just the ambiance we were looking for!  

Terri and Drew left the next day and we began our preparations for the hurricane. I begin below with my own account of the storm and my whereabouts.

For me the storm itself was a non-event,  as I was safely tucked away on shore.  My only concern was that everyone remained safe.   Fortunately, the cove and the men ensured all was well.

While Branko and Ken (the men) battled the elements to ensure H2obo was safe,    I stayed ashore and enjoyed the hospitality of Ken's family.  Margaret (the other Margaret) is Ken's wife, who is from the Hubbard's area.  After living across the country in Toronto and more recently in Vancouver decided that some time in the east coast would be good.   Ken and Margaret have four children,  Amy, Ian, Colleen and Michael -  who are loads of fun.

Margaret, Ian,Amy, colleen and Mike

and we all lived with Margaret's parents Rose and Paul who generously agreed to let me stay :-)

It was non-stop activity,   first a trip to make sure the men were OK and didn't need anything.  We found them well and happy -waiting for us to leave so they could continue whatever it was they were doing... me thinks watching movies.   Off to breakfast before the power went out,  then back to Rose and Paul's for a game of crib,  hide and go seek (the first round i was caught standing behind IT trying to figure out where to hide and how - i am much bigger then the last time i played this game)  - then we went again to visit the men,  who were now just in their shorts and again,  just waiting for us to leave :-)   

The wind and waves were apparent just outside the cove but H2obo seemed to be swinging around comfortably on the mooring - plus the men seemed non-pulsed,  so no need for me to yell over and offer my thoughts/opinions :-) yes this would be my way of helping.

So we left the men and went in search of ice cream,  which took a few hours - don't ask;  and then back home for a sandwich dinner because the power had gone out (the boat however had lights, a working stove, movies and refrigeration - we thought about swimming over to join them - but well, we were not invited.) Since there were no games or TV or movies and no lights we decided to play charades - which took a crazy turn to non-stop laughing.  Two teams, two nationalities, two accents and voila, non-stop laughter.  I had a great time.

Ian (at the Puddle) high tide

Hubbard's is a lovely area,  with great white sand beaches -  the water has been Caribbean warm and the weather the same.  We have swam  almost everyday sometimes twice - it makes us happy to know we will continue this way of life as we head south.

Maggie

Back to Baddeck Blog (courtesy of Kathy K.)

Hi  friends of Maggie & Branko,

Kathy and Maggie

This blog entry comes a little late.

 I'm Kathy from Toronto and I was with Maggie and Branko just before Bill, Gavin and Shannon.  My east coast adventure was two weeks; the first was with family, and the second week I was all alone (mostly), with just a rough itinerary, never knowing where I was going to eat or sleep, or even what day it was.  Pure bliss!!  Which is just a fraction of how Maggie and Branko must feel, with considerably more than a measly week of freedom ahead of them.

Need we say anything...:-)

Of all the adventures I experienced on my trip, by far the most fun I had was my time with the sailors, even though there was no sunshine and no sailing, and involved a museum, a knitting store, and a fiddle show.  I happily met up with the M&B at the wharf in Baddeck on a wet, dreary Wednesday morning, and I feel as though a magic spell was cast on us for the brief time we had together.  As Maggie mentioned, we had a great lunch, then on to the Alexander Graham Bell museum, which it turns out really is interesting.  We learned a lot about Bell, and my favourite part was watching the video of his daughters talking about growing up with this interesting man on their sprawling family property.

Learning to knit, pearl one and stab...

Afterwards, it was on to the knitting store for Maggie and me, while Branko went back to the boat to make dinner.  We had a blast at the knitting store.  It started when we walked in and Maggie announced to the owner, Pat, that she wants to make Branko a sweater.  Pat  was very amused to find out that Maggie had no knitting experience.  She was so amused that every time someone came in to the shop, Pat pointed to Maggie and told them about her ambitious plans.  Everyone laughed, and Maggie took the ribbing well.  She talked Maggie down to a scarf, and then maybe a blanket.  Pat and her husband of two years, Fred, were high school sweethearts, who went their separate ways and then reconnected after many decades...a very romantic story.  Fred gave Maggie some knitting lessons, and we happily left with a bagful of yarn.  (How's the scarf coming Maggie?)

The chef and captain with Sophie

Back to the boat for dinner, and just as my time with M&B was the best part of my trip, Branko's stew was the tastiest meal of my trip (and I had plenty of great food in two weeks).  I wish I could have come home with the recipe, but Branko just made it up as he went along -- and it was amazing.

Kathy with the talented fiddler

After dinner we went to the local Parish Hall for the Ceilidh, and for a couple of hours we just sat back and got lost in this wonderful Cape Breton tradition.  Well, M&B sat back until Nancy, the organizer, asked for four couples to come onstage for some dance lessons.  The first three couples quickly went up, and after a little coaxing, Branko grabbed Maggie by the hand and off they went.  So much fun!!!  Thankfully I had my camera with me, and got some great video.  If you want to see the dancers in action, please key in "h2obo Baddeck" and "h2obo in Baddeck" on Youtube.  Afterward, several people told Branko what a good dancer he was, but Maggie said it's just because he's tall and easy to see.

H2obo in Baddeck

Afterward, we went back to the boat and watched a very strange but excellent movie ( I can't remember the name), then off to bed.  I slept like a baby in my cozy little bed.  If you didn't have a chance to see the boat before M&B left, let me tell you -- it is gorgeous!  They did such a fantastic job building the interior from scratch.  I remember seeing it when it was just a hollow shell, and I never imagined the end result to be so impressive...so beautiful, comfortable, and efficient.  Every square inch of the interior is functional, and still esthetic.  I can see why Sophie is so happy and content!

 The next morning Maggie's cousin and his kids arrived just as I was leaving to continue my road trip.  You could see they were happy and excited to begin their adventure.

I want to thank you guys for your hospitality and the great memories!

Maybe I'll see you in the Bahamas or Croatia!

Note from H2obo -  Blog entry and pictures courtesy of Kathy :-)

Hurricane Watch in Nova Scotia ... Part 2

My friend Ken , whose family recently moved to the area from Vancouver, was interested in riding out Hurricane Earl with me, so the night before the storm was due to hit, he came aboard and Maggie went ashore to spend time with  Ken's wife (also name Margaret) and their four children.  Sophie stayed aboard because we figured that hurricane force winds buffeting the boat would be less traumatic than removing her from her favorite sleeping spots.

Earl was not expected to hit until the following midday, so the evening was pleasantly spent talking and watching movies.  I had a sound sleep but awoke early as the winds started to blow with Earl's approach.  Hubbard's Cove is tucked into a corner of St. Margaret's Bay, and H2OBO is moored near the mouth of the cove.  As the wind steadily increased we could see the waves marching across the cove entrance and breaking on the shore.  We only rolled a little as the waves fanned out from the point of land that marked the cove entrance.

Overnight, Earl had taken an eastward detour from the route he was originally expected to take.  Instead of making landfall in Yarmouth, he was travelling just off the southwestern shore, and it now looked as though he would hit near us somewhere in Lunenberg county, in which Hubbard's is situated .  We had on the local all-news radio station that seemingly had reporters posted all over Nova Scotia giving live updates of the hurricane with wind speeds, rainfall amounts, power outages, and fools getting swept into the ocean while watching the waves break on the rocks.  The seas out there were 7 to 10 meters high.

Around noon is when the action peaked.  H2OBO bucked in the wind and swung on its mooring but all remained secure.  I had one of the weather boards out so we could clearly see astern.  Every once in a while we would see the dinghy, which was tied to a stern cleat, get caught in a gust, rise up and flip over.  This happened about a dozen times,but no harm was done since the outboard engine was firmly mounted on its spot on the stern pulpit.

The eye must have passed very close by because there was a period when the winds diminished and the sky brightened followed after while by a return of the winds with equal intensity.

Apart from a few times when I mistakenly thought that we might have dragged our mooring, my only source of anxiety was the wind generator.  It is a Rutland 913, which I am very happy with in every respect.  It has a thermal switch which allows the rotor to freewheel in the event that the internal mechanism starts to overheat in high winds.
When this happened, the rotor spun so fast that I wondered how it did not break apart.

In the aftermath of Hurricane Earl, two boats in the cove broke free of their moorings and went ashore, power to over 200,000 people in the province went out, one person drowned somewhere while trying to secure their boat, many trees and branches snapped in the wind, and Sophie slept through most of it.  Maggie spent the time with her new friends enjoying their down-east hospitality, checking on Ken and me from shore, and playing games with the children by flashlight and candlelight.

H2OBO in Hurricane Earl

While at no time did I feel I was in any danger, I certainly felt alive.  And that was the end of Earl - our first named storm.

Hurricane Watch in Nova Scotia ... Part 1

I was going to talk about how we hit a rock while gunkholing in Tangier Bay on the Eastern Shore of Halifax. That resulted in a haul-out to repair the damage (I am sure the rock got the worst of it). But hurricane season on the atlantic coast has become the bigger news item, at least from our viewpoint.

If you have checked our blog, you will see us sitting in Hubbard's Cove, on a mooring ball. This is as good a spot as we could hope for in this situation. During hurricane Juan, about 4 years ago, no boats in the cove were lost. We are hoping for the same result this time.

Earl should hit sometime this weekend and we have been working to prepare for him. We have chafe gear on the mooring bridle and an extra line to the mooring anchor, stripped all the canvas off the boat, secured all the lines, lashed down the boom, removed valuable items and documents from the boat....the list goes on from there. We will be ready.

We will likely be here until the depressions off the coast of Africa cease forming at the present rate. Once we see a generous weather window, we plan to sail to Cape Cod to spend some time in that part of New England. We had been planning on going to Annapolis, but we will instead stage a trip to Bermuda from Newport, RI, and then go to the Bahamas. All this probably will not happen until October, because after Earl, there are Fiona, Gaston and the rest of the hurricanes and tropical storms lurking out there.

The weather and water temperature here have been uncharacteristically warm, as it is along the whole eastern seaboard, so this is feeding the depressions. It will take cooler, drier weather to break the chain of storms marching across the Atlantic.

For now, Maggie and I are going for a swim off one of the beautiful nearby beaches because today it is hot and sunny. Enjoy yourself while you can.

Branko