Croatian Coastal Sailing

Branko decided to stay on the boat, in Skradin,  while Sue, Mike and I took the ferry up the Krk river to view the spectacular falls - although we have Niagara Falls in our backyard (not literally) I was not thinking i would be impressed.   I was incorrect,  the waterfalls and the area above the falls were unusual and worth the effort and cost.   The government has built a boardwalk that circles all the falls and subsequent ponds, rivers and delta's - so you are walking above and beside the falls for about 2 kilometers - the wildlife (fish, tortoise, bugs and toads) were an added bonus to the views and smell of fresh running, unpolluted water.   A mill for manufacturing cloth, sits above the falls and only stopped processing cloth in the late 70's - I believe it had been built in the 12th century.

Waterfalls on the Krk River

Above the falls

Mike and Sue, ferry to falls

Wildlife by the falls

Branko and Anne, walk from the falls

The anchorage in Skradin was protected and pleasant, so  we stayed a few extra days.   The day after the waterfall journey,  Branko and I decided to meet up with Anne in Sibenik ( you all remember Anne right?  She crossed the ocean with us 2 years ago.) - We did not check the bus schedule and of course missed the only bus to Sibenik for the morning.  Not daunted we decided to hitchhike,  what else was there to do?  So armed with our trusty apple burek (breakfast) and our thumbs we walked to the edge of town and started to hitch...we had to wait about 10 minutes and got picked up by a gentleman going to work in Sibenik.   The car was tiny and smelled of gas fumes, no seatbelts and he drove like Mario Andretti - I figured if an accident happened it was best i get thrown clear of the wreckage.   But as you can see,  all went well and we arrived in dowtown Sibenik unscathed.   Now to look for a battery - we walked all over, through the old town (beautiful!), down through the best market we have seen so far and finally, without us really looking found a battery shop - bought the battery and then relaxed waiting for Anne's arrival via bus from Split.  Sibenik is the oldest Croatian town in Croatia,  The site on which Sibenik stands has been inhabited for thousands of years.  the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans have all settled the area - Sibenik resides just up the Krk river from the coast and boasts a huge waterfront, boat yards, 3 forts and numerous churches.  A worthy spot to visit.

Sibenik

Anne, driving das boat

Sibenik, doggy in window

Prvic harbour

Anne arrived, we took the next bus to Skradin and all is well.  We left Skradin a few days later and motored the 10 or so miles out the Krk river to the coast,  anchoring just outside the harbour of Prvic.  A small island with two towns - Sepurine and Prvic.   Old towns, with the windy streets and orange roofed houses, and pleasant walks around the island.   Did i say that once Anne arrived the weather has changed?  Well its now summer here,  and its hot, sunny and perfect for sailing and swimming Yea!  Thanks Anne!

The Kapatan (sp?) told us to leave the following morning - not allowed to anchor - but at least we had the night and a great walk through the island.    And our next destination was only 3 miles north to Tribunj.   This little town sits on a small island, connected to the mainland via a tiny stone bridge - its quite pretty and the water surrounding the town is light blue and just begs you to jump in...but ugh it was still very cold.

Bridge to Tribunj

Tribunj

Anne with her new toy

Branko in his fav seat

Murter

Lavendar and rosemary

Yesterday we sailed up the coast for 15 or so miles, along the island of Murter and are now anchored in the harbour.   What a wonderful sail,  the wind was perfect, close haul with just a little heel to make things interesting and sunny, sunny, sunny!  We even sailed through the narrow (once we got through it was not so narrow 8-)) cut, littered with rocks on the banksides to get to the town of Murter.   The water for swimming has thus far been chilly,  but yesterday the temperature was so hot,  i just jumped in, and, so lucky, the water was warm and inviting - finally.

Anne took her time jumping in,  as she was fearful of the usual cold and did not believe my affirmations that the water was indeed warm and refreshing...we had a good wash in the salt water and rinsed off with fresh, and felt great.   Today,  we went ashore walked about and not too impressed with Murter but Betina is a cute, old town, again with those windy streets and cafe's dotted along the waterfront.

We are having fun hanging out with Anne and our Aussie friends,  Sue and Mike - its Branko's 52nd birthday on Thursday so we are trying to think up something to do for the day...any suggestions?  Anne was with us for Branko's 50th birthday 2 years ago,  as we celebrated it crossing the ocean...which was the only gift he wanted that year 8-)  We really do not know how to top that one!

More about Anne later,  and of course she will write her own blog in a few days,  so stay tuned.
Oh and for you Nicole (and others interested) more pics in our photo album.   Nicole is Anne's Mom and turns out, one of our most faithful followers..hello to you Nicole.

Mag

Up the Krka River

A couple of days ago we weighed anchor in Primosten and sailed off towards Sibenik, which is only 10 miles  away.  We left in the company of Skedaddle Again (Australian) and Lazy Bones (American);  I have taken to calling the three of us "The Colonial Fleet".  It is beautiful sailing around here because there are islands everywhere and seldom lacking a breeze to sail in some direction.

Lighthouse near Primosten

Primosten

Sibenik is one of Croatia's major cities and lies by a large harbor that is at the end of the Krka River.  Up river is the town of Skradin and a national park featuring cascading waterfalls and canyons through which the river runs.

The first night, the Colonial Fleet anchored in a cove near the 15th century fort that guards the harbor entrance.  The cove was pretty tight, so we dropped anchor and tied to shore.  Maggie and I had a lovely swim, to the amazement of the rest of the fleet.  The folks from Sydney and California prefer their water much warmer than we do.  Later that night we had a soiree aboard Skedaddle Again, which left most of us feeling a little green the next morning.

Grogginess aside, the fleet weighed anchor and headed up river.  The Aussies dropped off at Zaton while the Yanks and us went all the way to Skradin.  The ten mile trip was well worth it: the location rates a full five-out-five star rating from Maggie.  A gorgeous old Roman town nestled in a river valley with a hilltop fort, cute streets for strolling, swans to feed, and a secure, free anchorage nearby all make Skradin a must-see destination  for cruisers.

Fog on the Krka

Marina in Skradin

Hilltop Fort, Skradin

Look at those bumpy hills!

I hope that huge bird doesn't crap on the boat!

Local wateringhole,  Skradin

We will be here for a week or so while we wait for Anne, our crossing-the-Atlantic friend, to join us for a visit.  Convenient buses will take us to Sibenik where I can get some of the stuff I need to keep me busy with some boat projects.  High winds are expected over the next few days in the Jugo-then-Bura pattern, but we feel secure with the anchor sunk in the muddy holding and the swans to keep an eye on us.

Dancing with the stars.

Our neighbors.

Branko

We Have "Split" from Trogir

After six days at anchor beside our current favorite Croatian town of Trogir, we have moved on to a nearby anchorage in Vinisce, which is only four miles up the coast.

During our time at anchor we visited Trogir a few times, did some major maintenance work on H2OBO, and visited Split.  While Split lacked the charm of Trogir, it nevertheless was well worth the visit.  The old town is built inside the former palace of the 3rd century Roman emperor, Diocletian.  He was born in Split of humble origins, distinguished himself in battle by helping to secure the empire's borders against incursions, rose to emperor and ruled from 284 to 308 A.D., settled some political issues caused by barbarian incursions by dividing the empire into four parts each of which was ruled separately, abdicated the throne, and retired to his palace in Split to garden.

What we found interesting about Split was the organic nature of the buildings.

Split, the Palace walls

Diocletions Palace

Peoples Square, Split

Hole in Dioclections palace, Split

View from Vinanse harbour

Successive civilizations built and incorporated the previous one's structures, so that now windows which brightened a room 1800 years ago now just were openings in walls that don't enclose rooms any longer .  It's chaotic, ancient and wonderful.

Now, the view from our anchorage in Vinisce is magnificent:  mountainous islands overlapping each other away into the distance all crowned by majestic clouds.

Branko