'We Finally Have Our Visas to Stay in Croatia

Ever since Maggie and I decided to spend the winter in Croatia, we have had to endure the bureaucratic hassle of that decision.  This post is for any cruisers who might be thinking of doing the same and might be considered a little dry for anyone else.

When we entered the country back at the beginning of August, the cost to cruise the Dalmatian Coast worked out to around 2200 kunas.  That entitled us to keep the boat in Croatian waters for one year.  Visitors are automatically granted tourist visas for three months.  One can apply to extend that visa for up to six months, but there is a significant cost.  After the extended visa expires, if you leave the country and immediately re-enter, you can get another three month visitor visa.  That gives you a year in the country.  After that, one must leave Croatia for at least three months before one can return.

Now back to the costs of the six month visa extension.  In terms of cash, it will cost about 600 kunas per person, which you pay at the end of the application process and which we were not informed about at the beginning.  It will take around 4 to 6 weeks to complete the process, but we were still able to cross borders after our three month visa expired and while the process was ongoing.  The soft "cost" of the process is the frustration of dealing with a senseless bureaucracy.  There are several requirements in the application process that takes place in the local police station: passports; a three month tourist visa; an invoice proving that you have paid for residence during the extended visa period; a bank account containing  2000 kunas per month of extended stay; Croatian national health insurance for each month of stay; a 20 kuna fee; and an interview with the police.  Everything had to be in Croatian (officially translated if in a foreign language) and in duplicate, and there was no photocopier available for use by the public - we were told about it after we produced single copies of everything and then had to go out to make copies.  To open a bank account, you first have to obtain an OIB from a different government office, with its own requirements, then you can open an account and transfer the money.

The insurance costs 70 euros per month, but you don't actually pay for it until the end of the process, i.e. you are supposed to go to the insurance office after you get your visa stamp in your passport *wink, wink*.  However you still have to go to the insurance office and register for the insurance and obtain a statement that you did so.  Since the police station does not handle cash, the 20 kuna fee is paid by means of a stamp that you purchase from the news stand and which you are told about after you present your bundle of documents for processing.

One other problem that we encountered was due to the fact that we hauled out for a six month period that would see the boat launched again March 31, 2013.  Since our contract is to that date, our paid-up residency ends on that date and we have to leave the country.  If we return immediately and get another 3 months, that 3 month period will end June 30 at which point we would have to leave for 3 months before we could return.  But July is one of the better months for cruising in Dalmatia so Maggie and I will have to be out of Croatia for the month of April so that when we return we can stay until the end of July.  That will cost us another month's fee in the marina and a month-long trip to Canada.  By the beginning of August we will have sailed north through Croatian water and moved on into Slovenia or Italy.  After what we have seen so far, we don't want to have to rush through Dalmatia.

After 6 weeks and 5 trips through Bosnia (500 km. each way owing to the fact that the local office in the village couldn't manage the extension process even though the Dubrovnik office assured us that any police station in Croatia could do it) we finally have our visas.  I only hope it will be worth all the trouble.

Now just imagine what I have to go through to apply for citizenship.

Branko

A Sad Trip to Vukovar

On Nov. 18th, Maggie and I got on a bus along with my two cousins and their daughters at 4:30 am to join some 50,000 others on a procession through this sad place on the border with Serbia to commemorate the date 21 years ago that the city fell to invading Serbian forces.  The Serbs shelled the city from across the river that now divides the two countries for 75 days, dropping hundreds of thousands of shells and effectively razing the city.  Today, a few buildings still show theirs scars, but none so vividly as the city's water tower, which highlights the intensity and malice of the shelling.

The annual observance of the Fall of Vukovar is really a memorial to 260 hospital patients and workers that were marched out of the hospital to a pig farm where they were beaten, executed and buried in a mass grave.  The procession starts at the hospital and ends at the cemetery: a hike about 6 km. long.  It also marks the beginning of the fight for independence of Croatia from the former Yugoslavia as Zagreb armed its forces during the siege of Vukovar.

The interwoven threads of history, religion, politics, empires and nationalism in the Balkans make this a very complex issue that stretches back hundreds, if not thousands, of years.  As Croatia moves to join the EU next year and as the remaining Balkan countries do so in the future, it is my sincere hope that bitter enemies will once again set aside their hatred and form strong allegiances, like France, Germany and England have done already.

Branko

A Couple of Days in Budapest

Budapest

Off we went, Daniella, Branko, Sophie (of course) and I to Budapest for a long weekend.   Surprisingly,  Hungary's border is less then 100K from the 'village.'    Daniella joked that she was going on a trip with her uncle and aunt,  Daniella is a very mature 32 year old and can certainly show me a few tricks.

The ceiling 

Coffee and cake shop in Budapest

Christmas market offerings

Ah Hungarian sausage and Daniella

Budapest, Christmas market

Flute maker and player

Having a drink and rest

Tram number 6

Chain Bridge, Pest to Buda

Hungarian Counts with their horses....

Buda castle area,  St. Stephans?

Hungarian horse troop

Parliament 

Grand Market, food area

Subway ride

 We left early morning and drove to Budapest arriving mid day - foggy and gray but lovely.    The apartment we rented was in the Pest 7th district,  bars, restaurants, trams and fun all within walking distance...as was the Christmas Market, which we went to at least 3 times,  much to Branko's chagrin.

Pec main square

Pec, gypsy steak establishment

Once we arrived,  Sophie was safely and happily ensconced in our apartment (old old building, main floor - with ceilings that could accommodate an additional 2 floors) with food, water and warmth - a change from her outdoor dwelling in the 'village.'    We got our walking shoes on,  and GO - first to the Christmas market, full of handmade goodies, warm wine and interesting people.   By  5:30 pm we were tired and feeling as though it was midnight, so, decided to sit in a bar not far from our apartment and drink.

Next day was to Buda and the castle - Hungarian Knights on horses,  guard changes, castles and sore feets - all in all a great morning.   The afternoon we visited the Parliament buildings and Daniella took her first subway ride - to the Grand Market!   Upstairs,  there are lines of food kiosks,  selling all types of Hungarian fare..sausage, vegetables, wine, beer, bread...and oh so much more.  We sat on the plank tables and ate, drank, spoke to tourists and watched people scurry by.

Mag.

Pec street

Museum street, Pec

McDonalds, Pec

Sunday we left and took a side trip to Pec - a medieval city enroute to Croatia.    Daniella was looking for the 'gypsy steak' of her youth and we found it in an alley off the old town - unfortunately it was not up to par and disappointment was evident in her face,  not because she was unhappy but because she wanted so much for us to experience her taste memories!   We circled the town, within the old walls and enjoyed a quiet journey throughout.