'We Finally Have Our Visas to Stay in Croatia

Ever since Maggie and I decided to spend the winter in Croatia, we have had to endure the bureaucratic hassle of that decision.  This post is for any cruisers who might be thinking of doing the same and might be considered a little dry for anyone else.

When we entered the country back at the beginning of August, the cost to cruise the Dalmatian Coast worked out to around 2200 kunas.  That entitled us to keep the boat in Croatian waters for one year.  Visitors are automatically granted tourist visas for three months.  One can apply to extend that visa for up to six months, but there is a significant cost.  After the extended visa expires, if you leave the country and immediately re-enter, you can get another three month visitor visa.  That gives you a year in the country.  After that, one must leave Croatia for at least three months before one can return.

Now back to the costs of the six month visa extension.  In terms of cash, it will cost about 600 kunas per person, which you pay at the end of the application process and which we were not informed about at the beginning.  It will take around 4 to 6 weeks to complete the process, but we were still able to cross borders after our three month visa expired and while the process was ongoing.  The soft "cost" of the process is the frustration of dealing with a senseless bureaucracy.  There are several requirements in the application process that takes place in the local police station: passports; a three month tourist visa; an invoice proving that you have paid for residence during the extended visa period; a bank account containing  2000 kunas per month of extended stay; Croatian national health insurance for each month of stay; a 20 kuna fee; and an interview with the police.  Everything had to be in Croatian (officially translated if in a foreign language) and in duplicate, and there was no photocopier available for use by the public - we were told about it after we produced single copies of everything and then had to go out to make copies.  To open a bank account, you first have to obtain an OIB from a different government office, with its own requirements, then you can open an account and transfer the money.

The insurance costs 70 euros per month, but you don't actually pay for it until the end of the process, i.e. you are supposed to go to the insurance office after you get your visa stamp in your passport *wink, wink*.  However you still have to go to the insurance office and register for the insurance and obtain a statement that you did so.  Since the police station does not handle cash, the 20 kuna fee is paid by means of a stamp that you purchase from the news stand and which you are told about after you present your bundle of documents for processing.

One other problem that we encountered was due to the fact that we hauled out for a six month period that would see the boat launched again March 31, 2013.  Since our contract is to that date, our paid-up residency ends on that date and we have to leave the country.  If we return immediately and get another 3 months, that 3 month period will end June 30 at which point we would have to leave for 3 months before we could return.  But July is one of the better months for cruising in Dalmatia so Maggie and I will have to be out of Croatia for the month of April so that when we return we can stay until the end of July.  That will cost us another month's fee in the marina and a month-long trip to Canada.  By the beginning of August we will have sailed north through Croatian water and moved on into Slovenia or Italy.  After what we have seen so far, we don't want to have to rush through Dalmatia.

After 6 weeks and 5 trips through Bosnia (500 km. each way owing to the fact that the local office in the village couldn't manage the extension process even though the Dubrovnik office assured us that any police station in Croatia could do it) we finally have our visas.  I only hope it will be worth all the trouble.

Now just imagine what I have to go through to apply for citizenship.

Branko

A Sad Trip to Vukovar

On Nov. 18th, Maggie and I got on a bus along with my two cousins and their daughters at 4:30 am to join some 50,000 others on a procession through this sad place on the border with Serbia to commemorate the date 21 years ago that the city fell to invading Serbian forces.  The Serbs shelled the city from across the river that now divides the two countries for 75 days, dropping hundreds of thousands of shells and effectively razing the city.  Today, a few buildings still show theirs scars, but none so vividly as the city's water tower, which highlights the intensity and malice of the shelling.

The annual observance of the Fall of Vukovar is really a memorial to 260 hospital patients and workers that were marched out of the hospital to a pig farm where they were beaten, executed and buried in a mass grave.  The procession starts at the hospital and ends at the cemetery: a hike about 6 km. long.  It also marks the beginning of the fight for independence of Croatia from the former Yugoslavia as Zagreb armed its forces during the siege of Vukovar.

The interwoven threads of history, religion, politics, empires and nationalism in the Balkans make this a very complex issue that stretches back hundreds, if not thousands, of years.  As Croatia moves to join the EU next year and as the remaining Balkan countries do so in the future, it is my sincere hope that bitter enemies will once again set aside their hatred and form strong allegiances, like France, Germany and England have done already.

Branko

A Couple of Days in Budapest

Budapest

Off we went, Daniella, Branko, Sophie (of course) and I to Budapest for a long weekend.   Surprisingly,  Hungary's border is less then 100K from the 'village.'    Daniella joked that she was going on a trip with her uncle and aunt,  Daniella is a very mature 32 year old and can certainly show me a few tricks.

The ceiling 

Coffee and cake shop in Budapest

Christmas market offerings

Ah Hungarian sausage and Daniella

Budapest, Christmas market

Flute maker and player

Having a drink and rest

Tram number 6

Chain Bridge, Pest to Buda

Hungarian Counts with their horses....

Buda castle area,  St. Stephans?

Hungarian horse troop

Parliament 

Grand Market, food area

Subway ride

 We left early morning and drove to Budapest arriving mid day - foggy and gray but lovely.    The apartment we rented was in the Pest 7th district,  bars, restaurants, trams and fun all within walking distance...as was the Christmas Market, which we went to at least 3 times,  much to Branko's chagrin.

Pec main square

Pec, gypsy steak establishment

Once we arrived,  Sophie was safely and happily ensconced in our apartment (old old building, main floor - with ceilings that could accommodate an additional 2 floors) with food, water and warmth - a change from her outdoor dwelling in the 'village.'    We got our walking shoes on,  and GO - first to the Christmas market, full of handmade goodies, warm wine and interesting people.   By  5:30 pm we were tired and feeling as though it was midnight, so, decided to sit in a bar not far from our apartment and drink.

Next day was to Buda and the castle - Hungarian Knights on horses,  guard changes, castles and sore feets - all in all a great morning.   The afternoon we visited the Parliament buildings and Daniella took her first subway ride - to the Grand Market!   Upstairs,  there are lines of food kiosks,  selling all types of Hungarian fare..sausage, vegetables, wine, beer, bread...and oh so much more.  We sat on the plank tables and ate, drank, spoke to tourists and watched people scurry by.

Mag.

Pec street

Museum street, Pec

McDonalds, Pec

Sunday we left and took a side trip to Pec - a medieval city enroute to Croatia.    Daniella was looking for the 'gypsy steak' of her youth and we found it in an alley off the old town - unfortunately it was not up to par and disappointment was evident in her face,  not because she was unhappy but because she wanted so much for us to experience her taste memories!   We circled the town, within the old walls and enjoyed a quiet journey throughout.

Croatia - Time Spent with Good Friends

I like Croatia.   Nice scenery,  interesting,  and historical... I know I have seen only a small portion of the country and yes,  I have heard of the politics, lack of employment, business and government issues...but as tourists and realizing that I cannot change the world - I  find the country worth visiting.

Dubrovnik,  interior view

Sailing next summer, looks good  - all those islands and old towns,  stones and orange roofs...and more.

This past August,  we shared Croatia with a number of friends - Linda and Eveleen,  John (IVAN) and Elizabeth,  and of course our old faithfuls,  Terri and Drew -  what a pleasure to spend time with everyone

Sipanski Luka,  island of Sipan

First Linda and her daughter Eveleen arrived.  Neither have sailed or spent anytime on a boat - but decided to spend a week, having very little idea of what to expect - I love Linda (and Eveleen too), for many reasons,  one being their willingness to experience, the unknown.   When Linda and I were younger,   I asked Linda to go canoeing with me, Friday to Sunday,  14 hour days,  portaging and paddling - the entire time. "Sure she says,  sounds like fun"  And the rest is history - we spent weekends and holidays for the next few years together.   I am so happy that Linda and Eveleen enjoyed themselves -because I want them to come back again and again.

Sipanski Luka, photo 

Although Linda's blog was detailed,  she missed out on a few things,  so I will tell you....Linda wanted to experience everything;   so, um, we let her....she did our laundry, twice, - stomping on the clothes and devising new ways of cleaning (see soon to come pics on our photo page) ..,  it was a treat for me!   Linda and Eveleen cooked, cleaned, swam,  and got in and out of the water via our dinghy...quite a feat.   Linda also took the jump,  literally;  not a confident water person ( I know,  all those canoeing years....) so was cajoled by Branko to jump from the boat into the water...not once,  not twice but I think three times.   What a brave person.   Eveleen of course,  thought all was normal and did not think twice, about anything, just did.   Really,  it was me who had all the fun.  Eveleen even slept through all the boras,  she thought the rocking and rolling in the Vberth very comfortable - crazy kid.

Dubrovnik, view from our boat

Next came our good friends,  Johnny and Elizabeth - again, two people who had not spent anytime on a boat,  except for the odd day sail on Lake Ontario.   Unfortunately,  Johnny is prone to seasickness and came prepared with remedies, just in case.   What adventurous souls.    We had a  wonderful time, catching up and just having fun.  The weather cooperated and we swam off the boat, journeyed to strange shores and laughed, alot.  Sophie also had a great time - John would wake up and hug/kiss Sophie before he said a word to anyone else ... very funny,  especially Elizabeth's responses!   Thank you,  for spending your hard earned time off (aka holidays) with us.  Oh,  and about Johnny and seasickness...there were no storms or rough weather,  so all was great - which means many more visits - YEA!  

View from our boat,  with John and Elizabeth

Next came Terri and Drew.  We benefited from our adventures with Linda, Eveleen, John and Elizabeth; we knew where to go, what to see,  and how long it should take us....plus the weather was perfect - no boras!  OK one,  but we were snug,  on a dock,  in the well protected town of Ston.    Plus,  Terri and Drew were spending almost two weeks with us - so we could travel a little farther.  Terri has been my friend since we were nineteen years old, mmhmm,  a long time -  again,  a very special holiday for me.   Spending a relaxing and fun filled (always fun filled) time together,  experiencing different countries and cultures, bike rides, walks and just being,  in each others company - feeling groovy!   And yes,  I think,  the times spent with all our good friends should be in the book of awesome!

P.S.  More pics of everyone will be on our photo page - once I get back to the boat that is- so stayed tuned.

Mag

Terri and Drew

Terri, cause I asked her to jump!

Sophie, on my picture book

Bosnia Road Trip - Take 2

Sarajevo,  kiosks selling metal works

Sarajevo,  main Mosque and fountain

We had to go back to Dubrovnik after only a week in Branko's family 'village'.   Daniella, Branko's second cousin, kindly lent us her car for the journey - which made a huge difference logistically.   The week in Dubrovnik was spent in and out of the immigration, police and insurance offices,  an experience, but boring in the retelling,.

  We also spent time with our friends Helmut and Monika from S.V. Maren,  watching a road rally, eating pizza, drinking beer, swimming in the pool and enjoying their company.    Soon all papers were signed and secret police visited (OK not so secret.)  Time to drive back to the village.

The quickest way to get to and from the village from Dubrovnik is via Bosnia.   So off we went,  but this time decided to spend a night in Sarajevo - it was just a short detour off the main highway and I had heard it was lovely...hmmmmm.

The drive through the Bosnian countryside is stunning and we all enjoyed it,  Sophie included.   As we entered the outskirts of Sarajevo,  we were surprised at the number of cars, trams, lack of trees, or any beauty - and the pollution we thought first it was fog...but it was not.   We joined the trail of cars, buses and trucks into the city - and fortunately found our apartment with very little difficulty.    Unpacked,  set Sophie up in the room and then we left to visit the city center.   Luckily,  our apartment was only a few blocks away from the major sights - and after a few wrong turns,  a beer and some sightseeing we found the market kiosks - which is quite nice.    A number of streets,  where no vehicles are allowed, only footpaths, that snake around traditional Bosnian kiosks (made of wood) with vendors selling,  t-shirts, Turkish coffee, metal objects, copper tooling, jewellery and pastries - my kind of place!

We also made a pact that we would NOT get any speeding, parking or any other kind of ticket to support the Bosnian police - and Yahoo,  we were successful.   Although the drive did seem extra slow,  going the speed limit.


Mag

Along the highway to Sarajevo

Bosnian highway - sure beats the 401

For Guy, Bosnian beer

Sarajevo, market kiosks

Yes that is our road map, Sophie, wake up!

Enroute to Mostar

Bosnian highway views

Damn,, can't that hay go any faster?

The mechanics, in  Sarajevo

Spoons , Sarajevo market

Bouncing Around the Balkans

Since Terri and Drew left us a few weeks ago a lot has happened. We plan to spend some of the winter with my relatives inland in Croatia and some of the winter travelling in Europe. In order to leave the boat unattended for that long, I would feel better leaving it on the hard, so we had to make arrangements to do so at the ACI Dubrovnik Marina. The cost is about the same as we paid in Almerimar last year, but the facilities and scenery are much, much nicer. For starters, there is a pool and showers with hot water. The grounds are clean and the equipment is all new and well maintained.

The pool, and Maggie

View from our boat-on land

 The marina is located at the start of the Dubrovacka River, which runs in a valley between two small mountains. The location is a few kilometres from Dubrovnik with buses running frequently between them. Just beyond the start of the river around the bend in the mountain is a huge valley that extends some kilometres to the south and contains a few small villages and countryside; it is all quite beautiful and pastoral.

While waiting to haul out on October 1^st, we anchored in the river in front of the marina (at no charge) for a week, and we rode out a couple of boras and otherwise took it easy. During one of the boras, a gust of wind flipped the dinghy over and the outboard spent some undetermined amount of time submerged. We don't have an anemometer, so I don't know how strong the gust was, but we have ridden at anchor in winds close to forty knots and never had any trouble with the dinghy. We suspect that perhaps we had the dinghy on too much rode whereas normally it is in closer to the mothership.

The outboard wouldn't start when we tried it, and we were literally up the river without a paddle, since we don't have paddles nor oars for the dinghy. Fortunately, our new friends Helmut and Monica loaned us their dinghy, so we could bring our motor to the mechanic who was conveniently located in the ACI yard. The next day after dropping it off we were up and running with it again – better than new.

H2OBO was expertly hauled out by a crew of about a dozen and placed onto the sturdiest and best cradle I have ever seen. There are eight pads, two at each corner of the stand, so that when it comes time to apply the anti-fouling (which we can do ourselves) there won't be any problems coating under the pads. The yard is well lit and guarded by cameras and a security guard.

H2obo anchored in river

Yard, ACI Marina

View from marina

We spent a few days winterizing the boat and packing for our extended stay away from our now landed home. We had rented a car (for approximately 20 euros a day for three days) from the Dubrovnik airport to drop it off at the Zagreb airport. My folks live in a little town called Palesnik, which is about seventy kilometres from Zagreb. The trip from Dubrovnik to Palesnik is about 700 kms., and there are two routes: one stays within Croatia and the other crosses through the country of Bosnia and Hercegovina (B&H). The former is longer since you basically have to drive around B&H. We chose the latter since we were promised that it was very scenic but were warned repeatedly about the rabid and abundant police.

While passing through the town of Jablanica, stopped at a red light, I turned right; this is a no-no in B&H, as well as in Croatia. I was immediately pulled over by a friendly cop who began shaking me down by telling me of the cost and hassle of a ticket I could avoid by paying him something directly. I gave him 5 euros and we were on our way again. On the way back to Dubronvik (I will get to that part of the story) through this same town, we were pulled over by cops while proceeding down an inclined part of the hill. Apparently, the speed limit was 40 km. and we were doing 67; however, both Maggie and I doubt that strongly. The police had radar and it showed that number but for all we know it ONLY shows that number. Anyway, after the same shake-down speech, I ended up giving them 40 kunas (about eight CAD) and we were on our way again – fuming. Our strategy from now on when getting stopped by the police in B&H will be to strictly speak English with the police while pretending not to understand anything they are saying; have only 10 kunas in my wallet; and insist that the police come back to the police station with us where we can pay the fine and, thereby, deprive them of their bribe. Maybe if they have to work for the money, they won't bother with us. I will let you know how that works because we will be returning to Palesnik again (wait for it....), and we will likely get a ticket again no matter how hard we try not to.

When foreigners enter Croatia they can travel on a tourist visa for three months within a six month period; like the Schengen Treaty rules in the EU. One can request an extension for up to 6 months, but there are some hoops to jump through first. One must get a tax number in order to open a bank account in which there is enough money to support oneself (2000 kunas/ month). After that, you must provide evidence of health insurance, an invoice to prove that accommodations have been paid for, passport photos, etc. Most of this happens at the local police station; both my cousins in Palesnik are policemen and we all thought that it would be far easier to fill out all this paperwork in their town. We were wrong. I suppose because no tourists have ever come to Palesnik and asked to stay for an extra six months, the local administrators had not a clue how to process us and refused to do so. We had to come back to Dubrovnik. It was October 9^th when we borrowed my cousin Daniela's car and drove back to Dubrovnik. Our three month visa expires on Oct 28^th, and it is not certain that the paperwork will be processed in time. In that case, we would drive back to Palesnik to return the car and then leave Croatia from Zagreb for three months before we could return again. What galls me is that we could have done all this while we were sitting on our hands in Dubrovnik for two months, and the fact that there seem to be different rules in different parts of the country that apply to foreigners. Fortunately, B&H is absolutely beautiful to drive through – despite the police.

Mostar brudge

Mostar

Old town, Mostar

Maggie,  on the Mostar bridge

B&H is mountainous and the highway that we have to travel runs beside a river in a deep gorge between steep mountains. The people are poor, but the villages are idyllically set throughout the mountains. It is best to stay away from the big cities as they have a distinct soviet-era ambiance about them. This includes Mostar, except for the old historical centre that contains the famous bridge. The last Balkan war pretty much levelled the old town, but it is mostly rebuilt and looks fantastically medieval. Three religions collide in B&H: Islam, Catholicism, and the orthodox church. The drive through the country takes us through distinct regions in which one of the three dominates. So as you cross the border into B&H from the coast, you see catholic churches with some minarets interspersed among them. As you continue into the heartland, the churches disappear and mosques predominate. Then as you continue north back toward Croatia (Croatia is shaped like a comma that is wrapped around B&H), you enter a region that is pro-Serbia and the churches and mosques have largely disappeared. There are still tensions among these three groups and seems that they will not be resolved any time soon.

Sophie, in the back seat

All this has been stressful on Sophie, too. When she moved into our house as an uninvited guest fourteen years ago, she had the run of a modestly large two-storey house. Then three years ago, we moved her onto a forty foot boat and she had never left it – intentionally. Then she found herself packed like baggage in a small rental car and a room in Mostar over the next three days, to which she adapted reluctantly. My cousin Branko (there are a lot them in Croatia) and his wife Sania, graciously provided Sophie with her very own room in one of the buildings on their property and she lived there for a few days before she was packed back into a car for the return trip to Dubrovnik. Soon she will be back in the car on her way back to her “suite” in Palesnik. I wonder what she thinks about all this.

Lamb roast

Branko, Dora and Branko

Borna and Domi

Tetak - Branko's uncle

During our brief stay in Palesnik, we attended the dismemberment of a pig; early morning hikes through the nearby forest to pick mushrooms and acorns with my cousins Daniela and Ankica; a party in honour of Croatian Independence day; a trip to visit nearby thousand year old ruins; another dismemberment – this time of a lamb that used to live in the back yard; a feast consisting of the spit-roasted aforementioned lamb; Maggie made a trip to Bosnia with Daniela and some of her friends to attend the chestnut festival that was taking place there; and lots of playing with Dora, Domagoj and Borna, my cousins' kids. It was an action-packed and fun few days.

Mushroom hunting

Eureka!

Mushroom at home...

Acorns, 40 kilos

We have already made some progress with the paper work in Dubrovnik and hope to get everything sorted out so that we can return to Palesnik and be there with the gang over Christmas and New Year. It would be a blast. After that we are hoping to return for a visit to Spain for a couple of months to visit our friends there. Then it would be back to Croatia to continue cruising north along this beautiful coast.

That's the plan, at least. We will see how far we stray from it over the next few months.

Branko