CLOSE TO HEAVEN

It has been a while since you have heard from me (Branko), so here it goes...In a nutshell: there have been mostly UPS with some DOWNS.

Let me begin with the arrival to the Bahamas after crossing the Gulf Stream (UP). It was a gentle crossing while mostly sailing. After crossing the abyss and entering Bahamas' territory late in the evening, we anchored in 15 feet of water in what looked like the middle of the ocean. It was surreal because there was only water in all directions and, yet, our hook was down. Our first impressions when we awoke will last a lifetime. The water was crystal clear and we could see features on the bottom like starfish, coral and white sand that made the water turquoise blue.

After traveling for the day, we arrived in Great Sale Cay, an uninhabited island which is a waypoint and safe harbour for vessels enroute to and from the Abacos. We anchored there for a couple of nights along with our traveling companions to await favourable sailing winds. We later learned that not long before we arrived, a Canadian catamaran had dragged anchor and been blown ashore when the wind shifted and they were caught on a lee shore. As far as we know, everything worked out alright because they were not there when we arrived.

We got the winds and had a terrific sail (UP), as Maggie has already mentioned, to Manjack Cay. This is where we had our first DOWN. Up until now, our anchor, a fixed-shank scoop style called a Raya, had performed like a champ, so we went through our usual anchoring procedure and hopped in the dinghy to go ashore. We did not bother to put the motor on the dink because we were so close to shore. Our dinghy is one we purchased from HMP, which was NOT one of our better purchases. Within the first hour of use, the oar locks on the dinghy had broken, so the only way to paddle the boat is for two people to do it while each straddles a pontoon and paddles commando-style (not that kind of commando!). It is quite awkward since a dinghy does not track like a canoe and can spin around on the spot. Once we got to shore and were enjoying a delicious rum punch served up by our hosts Bill and Leslie, Maggie noticed H2OBO sailing by in the winds that had suddenly piped up (DOWN).

This was not a good situation. First of all, Sophie knows nothing about piloting a boat, and secondly, it would have been impossible for Maggie and me to commando-paddle the dink while chasing our drifting boat in the brisk wind. Fortunately, others with us had the common sense to use an engine on there dinghy, so Jim from Java and I borrowed one and motored out after the drifting H2OBO. Fortunately, the anchor held before she made it to shore (UP), so Jim and I got aboard. In the meantime, another boat was launched and they raised a mooring that they knew of and guided us over to it once I got the engine started and got the anchor raised. By this time, Maggie had arrived on the boat. Once we secured the boat, Jim and I went back to the party and finished our rum punches (UP), which Maggie missed because she remained on board (DOWN).

The next day we tried to set the anchor again and failed to do so. After snorkeling to see what the problem was, I realised that the issue was the Turtle Grass that grows in this area. It has thick blades and large stringy roots that can be a 1/4” thick. Our anchor is too light with not enough of a point to cut through the roots to get underneath to the sand. Our other anchor, a Bruce copy, is good for sand and mud, and also has difficulty setting in the gnarly grass. We dropped both and held our spot (UP).

We will be making changes to our ground tackle. We are in the process of ordering a 55# Delta from Florida to use while we are here. Shipping and paying the duty is expensive, but we have no choice (DOWN). Once we return to Florida, we will also purchase a 75# Rocna to use as our primary anchor, and keep the Delta as a secondary. Both of these are overkill, but since H2OBO is our permanent home, we will carry the weight and be able to sleep through a hurricane at anchor. The efficacy of both these designs are proven in independent tests and through testimonials of owners that we have met and will work on a wide variety of bottom conditions. I will let you know what our experience is once we have tested them.

On our way into Marsh Harbour to meet Terri and Drew, we ran aground in sand (DOWN). We got free with the help of Pete from Saliander. He hauled us over by attaching our spinnaker halyard to his dinghy and motoring off our beam. We slowly inched off as I gunned the engine. When we set the anchor (still the Raya since we have not received the Delta yet) it held (UP) and I had a chance to

check the engine. I discovered a leak from the LASDROP Dripless shaft seal. As the name implies, the leak was a DOWN. With some adjustments, I was able to stop the leak while the shaft was stationary, but when the shaft turned, the water would stream in (DOWN). This meant that until we fixed the problem, we would have to rely on sailing and minimal use of the engine. That was not a huge problem, but it did limit the things we could do with Terri and Drew (DOWN). There was nothing for it but to haul out and replace it. LASDROP was great to work with and they shipped a replacement out pronto. Since then, we hauled out in Man O'War Cay. Our new friends on CIVIL TWILIGHT, Gerry and Allan, were there to help and actually made it fun (UP). My forensic analysis is that, while running hard astern in shallow water, sand was forced into the stern tube and between the graphite and stainless steel faces, thereby scoring the graphite and preventing a seal.

Alain, Gerry and Branko - Man O War

On boxing day, I broke a corner of a molar off (DOWN), so now I need a cap. The good news is that I don't need a root canal (UP). Four weeks and $800 from now it will be fixed. How much would this cost in Canada? Less, I think.

All on the UP side: we have made some great new friends; snorkeled on reefs; swam on beautiful white sand beaches; hiked on charming cays; had a visit from dear friends; and we are living in a lovely, warm corner of the world for the winter and loving it. Since we might be here for a few more weeks while we await our new anchor and while I get my tooth fixed, we may go no further this winter. There is still plenty to see and do here, but nothing is cast in stone.

Stairs to a home....wow

Wild life on the island

Conks shells hanging about

Since we aren't dead nor sure that that is our final destination, I know we are not in heaven. But we are close, so we will gladly continue to take the few DOWNS along with the many UPS.

Branko